Saturday, May 22, 2010

New front standard/ lens board for big eyes

New front standard and lens board will look like this
Opening hole on front standard is 61mm in diameter, the maximum it can hold, of course I can drill bigger hole, but original front standard is not able to, so that is it.

There will be milled down  a little bit on face, to accommodate the lens board, and to make light trapping. There is no dent or opening for recessed plane, so when lens board mounting on, it is light-proof.

Two custom made screws to hold the bottom of the board, I deliberated to make them only about 1.2mm blocking the board, for this it doesn't need too great angle to slip the board in place.

And at top there is a spring locking mechanism, a very simple design, which I am proud of, will show you when all finish testing.

The lens board, no problem for #2 shutter, 2.7mm in thickness, very sturdy. and the shape is simple, even you can do your own.

And  I think Emily can use this too.

(28/05 add)
Received front standard parts I ordered, unfortunately the thickness and the holes positions are out of tolerance, factory promised to re-make these parts, all I can do now is waiting.

But I am planning to make version 2 of "Something you should know about Byron", so many improvements after version 1 released, and while this new front standard/ lens board system, there will be two kind of lens board/ front standard to choose.
  • If your lenses are all in #0 shutter, use the round circular lens board.
  • If any one of your lenses equipped with shutter other than #0, use the rectangular lens board/ front standard
conversion cost will be adjusted accordingly.

(01/06 add)
Prototype came back this afternoon, new front standard is easy to use. Here two types of front standard sit side by side, with circular/ rectangular lens board accordingly.
New front standard has a sliding lock at the top, it is big, so you can grab it with fingers very easy.
You hold the sliding lock and pull it upward, that release the lens board, you release the lock, with help of springs, lock slides back and locks the board, that easy.

Front view of prototype, light trap around lens board keeps light away.
Like I said before, this front standard is great when you use big eyes, here are what I tested.. two Xenotar 2.8/150 with #2 shutter, one Xenotar 3.5/135 with #1 shutter, one Tele Arton 5.5/270 with #1 shutter, one Super Angulon 8/90 with #0 shutter, one Grandagon 4.5/75 with #0 shutter.
Only Xenotar 2.8/150 needs to be mounted in-directly, others all are capable of directly mounted.
Thanks to NY Jeff, push me to solve problem mounting Xenotar 2.8/150 on Byron, without him, I would not make it!

This is the biggest lens Byron can hold, rear element is too big, can not mount the lens directly, what a pity.
Funny thing is that almost emails came asking about Xenotar 150  are fashion photographers, but that make sense, this heavy big lens is too bulky for snaps.
Tele Arton 5.5/270, very easy to mount on, but I need to test the rail limit.

And for Grandagon 4.5/75; SA 8/90 and Xenotar 3.5/135, this front standard is easy to mount directly.

Now is time for minor modifications, round corners, dimension adjusts......
and matte black surface paint.


Jack Hui said...

Is this for 150/2.8 len??

Salihonba said...

Yes, and for those leses with big rear.

And there is place to rise the lens, so 75mm lens on it will not be blocked by camera bed.

Also I did this to solve German Bear's complain, he likes to shoot in snow day, wearing gloves, it is painful when replacing lens, since previous version locking slider is too small for hands in gloves.

This one the spring lockis BIG!

Jack Hui said...

I wish Byron can take #3 shutter ... i.e. my NEW project can be used on Byron

Actually, I have some thought to solve the #3 issue, but I need to see your new front element in person to be sure. Let's meet someday in Hong Kong!!!

Salihonba said...

#3 shutter got 102mm in diameter!

Jack Hui said...

Daniel, how large is the opening of the front element?

If it is larger than 62mm, then, why not make the thread on the front element, and directly "screw" in the #3 copal?

Salihonba said...

Jack, it is the supporting struts by sides will conflict the #3 shutter, they are max 76mm in between, barely allow the #2, but for #3, 102mm, I am not able to solve the problem.
and the thread hole for #3 is 64mm in dia., almost cut the standard in half!!
TOO BIG LAH!!(@+@)

Jack Hui said...

Just check the copal #3 specification, shouldn't the mounting thread be M62x0.75 ???

Can you make an extension tube, one side screw in to your front element, and the other side screw into the #3 mounting thread. i.e. to avoid the side bar.

Salihonba said...

OK lah, will see you lens first. God I must be crazy, #3 shutter on Byron!