New55 film had been developed for years, I had a chance to know project leader and developer Bob, who dedicated to bring back this wonder film to market, after countless time and effort, he finally made!
You can find link of the New55 project website in my blog list.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/bobcrowley/new55-film
I didn't got the kickstart kit yet, but I know there are lots of people who are interested in, are you one of them? enroll soon!
Showing posts with label 4x5. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 4x5. Show all posts
Tuesday, April 1, 2014
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Make Double Side Slide film holder into Graflok style
Byron camera has a custom back system, accept most of film holder in Graflok (or International Standard back), two clamps at right side and two sliding teeth at left side, ensure film holder to be securely hold.
As a 4x5 format camera, Byron is set as a snap shooter, you can take as many film as possible when subject appears comparing to view or press camera, this camera is dedicated to those film holders who can hold as many films as possible.
To 4x5 sheet films, there are film holders like Grafmatic 1268 6 pack film holder, Fuji Quickchange 8 pack film holder available, and they perfectly match with Byron back system, no need any modification, or just a minor job to do. But for those user who gets used to use Double Side Slide film holder, which needs Graflex back to "sandwich" holder on camera back, which Byron lacks, I proposed some ideas to adapt it on Byron, not very ideal, but works.
Sometimes I need to use DDS film holder, like the situations when I would like to have the negatives developed individually with different solutions or developing time, that is quite normal if you apply Zone System on them, especially if you use developing tube like BTZS tubes, it is very easy to achieve.
Actually I am proud of the function that Byron back holds the pull-out slide when shooting, in the video top above shows that Byron rotating lock holds the slide, not only frees your hand, and best of all, reminds you to slides it back when you finish shooting and ready to flip the holder for another shoot. Think about it, you don't have spare hand to hold it, and there won't be a table besides you to keep the slide, for Byron is operated when you are in mobile status, you are not in a studio!
Ralf sent some DDS holders to me, asking to modify them following the ideas I proposed, to have two ditches at each side, let clamps grab the holder more securely.
I inspected the idea I proposed, and felt that there are space to improve.
Looking the ditches I had to make at side of holder, you will see that clamp bites in the holder, at center high above the bottom, and because both side of holder could be bottom side, two ditches had to be made, to accept the bite.
That thin layer of plastic, who bear the burden to takes the pressure from clamp, in my calculation, if film holder is 11mm in thickness, would be 0.6mm only, and if holder thickness gets more thicker, it maybe as thin as 0.5 mm.
I thought it should be better in stronger material, best steel, or even better in stainless.
So there goes the new improvement. Images bellow shows a rather big ditch was drilled each side, clamp would bite in the holder without any difficulty, but without a center layer to be pressed, clamps can not tightly hold the holder.
Inserted in a stainless sheet into the center of the ditch, you can see the difference between two ditch style, and original holder without ditch.
Masked putty with carbon fiber sheet at side, so here we have a beautiful DDS film holder ready for Byron.
Now Byron holds DDS film holder very securely, and you can notice clamps completely bites in.
As a 4x5 format camera, Byron is set as a snap shooter, you can take as many film as possible when subject appears comparing to view or press camera, this camera is dedicated to those film holders who can hold as many films as possible.
To 4x5 sheet films, there are film holders like Grafmatic 1268 6 pack film holder, Fuji Quickchange 8 pack film holder available, and they perfectly match with Byron back system, no need any modification, or just a minor job to do. But for those user who gets used to use Double Side Slide film holder, which needs Graflex back to "sandwich" holder on camera back, which Byron lacks, I proposed some ideas to adapt it on Byron, not very ideal, but works.
Sometimes I need to use DDS film holder, like the situations when I would like to have the negatives developed individually with different solutions or developing time, that is quite normal if you apply Zone System on them, especially if you use developing tube like BTZS tubes, it is very easy to achieve.
Actually I am proud of the function that Byron back holds the pull-out slide when shooting, in the video top above shows that Byron rotating lock holds the slide, not only frees your hand, and best of all, reminds you to slides it back when you finish shooting and ready to flip the holder for another shoot. Think about it, you don't have spare hand to hold it, and there won't be a table besides you to keep the slide, for Byron is operated when you are in mobile status, you are not in a studio!
Ralf sent some DDS holders to me, asking to modify them following the ideas I proposed, to have two ditches at each side, let clamps grab the holder more securely.
I inspected the idea I proposed, and felt that there are space to improve.
Looking the ditches I had to make at side of holder, you will see that clamp bites in the holder, at center high above the bottom, and because both side of holder could be bottom side, two ditches had to be made, to accept the bite.
What clamps really grab the holder is thin leftover that between two ditches, which is thin and in plastic makes it fragile, I am not so confident of it.
I thought it should be better in stronger material, best steel, or even better in stainless.
So there goes the new improvement. Images bellow shows a rather big ditch was drilled each side, clamp would bite in the holder without any difficulty, but without a center layer to be pressed, clamps can not tightly hold the holder.
Inserted in a stainless sheet into the center of the ditch, you can see the difference between two ditch style, and original holder without ditch.
Now Byron holds DDS film holder very securely, and you can notice clamps completely bites in.
And the last, a slide is pulled out and kept by rotating lock, frees your hand, and reminds you to insert it back before you flip the holder.
Monday, December 2, 2013
Restored a Polaroid conversion
This is a Polaroid 110B converted into a 4x5 format fixed lens camera, converted by someone else, not me. The one that famous handsome US actor Bard owned, and everyone loves 4x5 would definitily loves to have one too.
Client sent it to me, asking to replace the focus knob that seems cool but awkward to manipulate, and get rid of those decorations to "make it looks like a normal camera".
I didn't know what those decoration for at the first sight, till I took off those decoration plate. Oh, there is one hole at the RF housing, beneath the decoration plate, cracked.
That explain something.
And the viewing window, converted into a round shape, claimed that improves viewing, I compared this with original viewing window, can not tell any difference, so I figured that must be my own problem, I am dull in some area, especially this.
I thought maybe I can learn something on this, I turned up the housing, to see how the view window were converted, then I found out that it was made by very sophisticated skillful hand, obviously, which beyond my ability and guts and I don't dare to copy, no mention to sell it out.
The RF housing was cut off at the end, to match the cutting body, so obviously there will be a cutting phase to compensate, that need some putty. Many converted Polaroids I had seen, were all get exposy putty with enough amount, to ensure that fragile end will hold the job.
But not this one, I thought the builder must be following kind of "lighter the better" philosophy, no matter how easy the housing cracks at that part, that was not his problem.
Managed to bring this cracking housing back to normal, the result is somewhat OK to me. Oh, and I replaced the cold shoe, hope it could be as good as the original one, that sticks with sponge tape onto camera body, so bold mind and so creative that I never think of.
Replacing focus knob is an easy job, but I do admire that original converted knob, so pretty, so unique, and so hard to use.
Client sent it to me, asking to replace the focus knob that seems cool but awkward to manipulate, and get rid of those decorations to "make it looks like a normal camera".
I didn't know what those decoration for at the first sight, till I took off those decoration plate. Oh, there is one hole at the RF housing, beneath the decoration plate, cracked.
That explain something.
And the viewing window, converted into a round shape, claimed that improves viewing, I compared this with original viewing window, can not tell any difference, so I figured that must be my own problem, I am dull in some area, especially this.
I thought maybe I can learn something on this, I turned up the housing, to see how the view window were converted, then I found out that it was made by very sophisticated skillful hand, obviously, which beyond my ability and guts and I don't dare to copy, no mention to sell it out.
The RF housing was cut off at the end, to match the cutting body, so obviously there will be a cutting phase to compensate, that need some putty. Many converted Polaroids I had seen, were all get exposy putty with enough amount, to ensure that fragile end will hold the job.
But not this one, I thought the builder must be following kind of "lighter the better" philosophy, no matter how easy the housing cracks at that part, that was not his problem.
Managed to bring this cracking housing back to normal, the result is somewhat OK to me. Oh, and I replaced the cold shoe, hope it could be as good as the original one, that sticks with sponge tape onto camera body, so bold mind and so creative that I never think of.
Replacing focus knob is an easy job, but I do admire that original converted knob, so pretty, so unique, and so hard to use.
And the infinity stop, I replaced that Velcro version conversion has, for I still can not solve the secrets that fix lens with Velcro and sponge tape. I took off the Velcro, bring back into the original one from Polaroid, and added a steel plate to ensure the fix position. When replacing this part, I made the i.stop calibration, found that must be my calibration procedure has something to improve, for my calibration result did not agree with it, hope my client can live with my error.
Well, these were some thoughts while I did the job, and I think best to keep myself in Byron area, only function counts, deco is not my dish......
Tuesday, October 22, 2013
New enlarger light box arrived
Recently I bought a color light box mixer for my Saunders/LPL enlarger, which is set in a multi-grade light box now.
New light box is in brand new style, but since it is set for 4x5 copier (!!), three color mixers wheel are in up-side-down for their digits, but that doesn't make reading difficult.
For that up-side-down reason, the price for this new box is incredible cheap, less than $100, and at street price this will cost you more than $500.
My darkroom was deserted for many years due to moving new house, and no time to plan a new darkroom, but this winter I should be able to re-open it.
For collecting dark brown glass bottles for storing solutions, I now rush to drink a lot of beers. :)
New light box is in brand new style, but since it is set for 4x5 copier (!!), three color mixers wheel are in up-side-down for their digits, but that doesn't make reading difficult.
For that up-side-down reason, the price for this new box is incredible cheap, less than $100, and at street price this will cost you more than $500.
My darkroom was deserted for many years due to moving new house, and no time to plan a new darkroom, but this winter I should be able to re-open it.
For collecting dark brown glass bottles for storing solutions, I now rush to drink a lot of beers. :)
New light box is on the platform, beneath the old one.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
To Better Fit Regular Double Dark Slide Film Holders on Byron Back System
Rules are made to be violated. I am happy to said that, since I break another rule I set before, it means the limits are less, options are wider.
Byron has its own back system, differs from International Standard Back System or Graflok Back System, because I want it to keep simple and slim as possible.
Since it did not follow industrial standard, there are some limits for those standard film holder to be mounted on.
I received feedback from my dear client Raymond, who are not satisfied when using regular double dark slide film holders: "The tabs holding the film holder do not close completely when a film holder is inserted. The tension is insufficient to keep the film holder snuggly against the camera and I am concerned that there will be a light leak. Is this how it is supposed to work? It seems you are trying to make the tabs work with all types of backs but have compromised the operation when used with a regular film holder. I think it should be the other way around - it should work perfectly with the film holder and compromises should be made when using the other backs."
What my main purpose on developing Byron camera is for hand-held, street snap 4x5 rangecoupled, so those holders who can carry as many films as possible are prior listed, Grafmatic 6 films, 120 roll films, instant film packs, to name a few, and they are all in Graflok standard, thus Byron Back System was guided for Graflok standard. Two clamps on both up and beneath side hold Graflok film holders very well, you can see operations on my YouTube video.
Trying to design a system perfectly fit both for Graflok and Graflex systems, but failed, so I had to compromise the regular double dark slide film holders, what clamps hold are only the tiny ditches on side of the holders, not very securely held. In the picture below you can see that clamps do not grip the holder by "bite in" the holder, but just hold the side by the tension.
For this I set the limits on "Something you should know about Byron", regular double dark slide holders, only allow those holders who has ditches on side, like brand Fidelity series, or Lisco holders; and those holders who has no ditches on side are off the list, like TOYO holders.
Though clamps do not "bite in" the holder, I am not so worry, since when hand-held, your left hand holds the camera, thumb naturally press the back , providing good support of the holder, to keep it from falling.
But how about when not hand-holding, on tripod, there is no hand to press the back, will it be secure to hold? That must be concerned by many clients who are experienced LF camera users, but seldom hand-held snaps on 4x5, like what Raymond said.
Here I use TOYO holders, whose sides are without ditches, but with these ditches I made, they are feasible for Byron now, holders is securely hold.
(23/02 add)
People asked about the precised position of the ditches, so here it is
Help by a lathe machine and a 1.5mm drill, make 2 ditches each side. The most important dimesion is 6.8mm, center of the ditch, just for clamp to grip.
File both side of holder, to make room for velcro tape, you can compare original holder and the one who has been filed.
Then cut the proper size of velcro tape (hook side), paste it on both sides of holder, now we provide very good "Bite-In" zone for clamps!
For comparing the "Bite-In", we list three ways in a row, you can choose an option you like. Now, the DD slide holders are not limited anymore, any holder allowed on Byron!!
Byron has its own back system, differs from International Standard Back System or Graflok Back System, because I want it to keep simple and slim as possible.
Since it did not follow industrial standard, there are some limits for those standard film holder to be mounted on.
I received feedback from my dear client Raymond, who are not satisfied when using regular double dark slide film holders: "The tabs holding the film holder do not close completely when a film holder is inserted. The tension is insufficient to keep the film holder snuggly against the camera and I am concerned that there will be a light leak. Is this how it is supposed to work? It seems you are trying to make the tabs work with all types of backs but have compromised the operation when used with a regular film holder. I think it should be the other way around - it should work perfectly with the film holder and compromises should be made when using the other backs."
What my main purpose on developing Byron camera is for hand-held, street snap 4x5 rangecoupled, so those holders who can carry as many films as possible are prior listed, Grafmatic 6 films, 120 roll films, instant film packs, to name a few, and they are all in Graflok standard, thus Byron Back System was guided for Graflok standard. Two clamps on both up and beneath side hold Graflok film holders very well, you can see operations on my YouTube video.
For this, three options to clients to choose.
1. Keep It that Way.
If you use Fedelity or Lisco holders, with faint ditches on side, and would like to hand-held snaps, you don't need to do any change, just use the holders. When you mount the holders, your left hand thumb will provide enough press to keep the holder, and the dark slide you insert into the blocking plate (see pic, above), provides another security to keep it.
2. Make Ditches for Bite-In
If you are good at machine, and happen have tools, you can make ditches on side of the holders, let clamps grip the holders by "Bite-In", it is the best solution I can get now, but you need tools to do it. The ditch is 1.5mm wide, 20mm long, and 1.5mm in depth.
Here I use TOYO holders, whose sides are without ditches, but with these ditches I made, they are feasible for Byron now, holders is securely hold.
(23/02 add)
People asked about the precised position of the ditches, so here it is
3. The Velcro Way
I know that ditches way is difficult for average people, so there is an easy way, what we want to prepare are velcro tape, a pair of scissor, and file.
Friday, January 1, 2010
Lens mount study---150mm lenses
Each lens on Byron needs to be measured for its infinity stop, that is why I asked my clients to ship their lenses planning to use on Byron to me.
Byron is handmade converted, and the lenses are in different shutters, these variations bring great differences within lenses in same focal length.
Recently I measured 12 Byrons for their 4.7/127 Ysarex, to engrave their infinity stops. I found out that i.stop location changes within 4mm range, specific camera should paired with specific lens, no lens/camera switches allowed.
And on 150mm lens, I got 7 lenses this time, all in different type, although they are marked 150mm, but by their i.stop location, I'm sure some lenses are far less than 150mm.
Another BIG brother is a 2.8/150 Xenotar, I put a 127 Ysarex with it as comparison, you can see its size!! In #3 shutter! Jesus Christ!
We will discuss each lens one by one, for future references.
This lens got the shortest i.stop distance among other 150 lens, I doubt it is far less than 150mm, but found no data to prove it.
It doesn't need extruding lens board, normal board is good enough, and best of all, this lens can stay in camera when fold up, its tiny size and light-weight feature is great for travel and pack-carry, all these make this lens highly recommended for Byron.
This vintage lens is rather fast--4.5, and needs a extruding lens board, for its exceeding i.stop, and for its #1 shutter.
Fuji 150 lens on normal lens board, can be directly mounted on, that is, no need to unscrew the rare element first. Compared with newer version, this lens is rather small in size, and quite easily mount/unmount.
I don't understand why Fuji made this version in such a big size, much bigger then previous version, but the lens are all in same size, a lot of space is wasted on its "bowl", front and rare, brings troubles when mounting on Byron.
I was hoping to mount this lens directly, according its rear size in 47mm dia. smaller than Byron front standard lens hole 48mm, but because of extruding lens board, it only allow for in-directly mounting, very disappointed.
So there are two options:
Pity, this is my favorite lens, but I can't make it perfect fit on Byron.
This tiny lens takes extruding lens board for its 3mm exceeding i.stop, other than that, no problem on mounting/un-mounting, very light-weight, a great lens for travel and trekking, but front element is little bit high, preventing it staying in camera when fold up.
Seikosha-Rapid shutter got a funny long release arm, so it can be released by Byron's sliding release, another weird plus.
(to be continued.....)
tiny, light weight and stay in fold up
1. Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150mm
2. Fujinar 6.3/15cm
3. Voigtlander 4.5/15cm (in #1 shutter)
4. Rodenstock APO Ronar 9/150
2. Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150
Byron is handmade converted, and the lenses are in different shutters, these variations bring great differences within lenses in same focal length.
Recently I measured 12 Byrons for their 4.7/127 Ysarex, to engrave their infinity stops. I found out that i.stop location changes within 4mm range, specific camera should paired with specific lens, no lens/camera switches allowed.
And on 150mm lens, I got 7 lenses this time, all in different type, although they are marked 150mm, but by their i.stop location, I'm sure some lenses are far less than 150mm.
Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150 in #0 shutter
It doesn't need extruding lens board, normal board is good enough, and best of all, this lens can stay in camera when fold up, its tiny size and light-weight feature is great for travel and pack-carry, all these make this lens highly recommended for Byron.
Voigtlander Heliar 4.5/15cm in #1 shutter
Fujinon.W 5.6/150 in #0 shutter--older version
CM Fujinon.W 5.6/150 in #0 shutter--New Version
two versions compared in size.
Infinity stop moves further a little bit, compared with old version, so it needs an extruding lens board. And the rare element is bigger than 48mm in diameter, must be taken off when mounting, then re-screw it on, that makes this lens the least choice for Byron, take my word, choose that old version.
Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150 in #0 shutter
So there are two options:
1. installed with extruding lens board, and in-directly mount the lens.
2. installed with normal lens board, directly mount the lens, but rail extends about 2mm.
I will take option 2, for 2mm of rail movement loss cause focus range from 5 feet to about 5.3 feet, and I think I seldom to use a 150 in such close distance.Pity, this is my favorite lens, but I can't make it perfect fit on Byron.
Fujinar 6/3/15cm vintage lens in #0 shutter
This tiny lens takes extruding lens board for its 3mm exceeding i.stop, other than that, no problem on mounting/un-mounting, very light-weight, a great lens for travel and trekking, but front element is little bit high, preventing it staying in camera when fold up.
Seikosha-Rapid shutter got a funny long release arm, so it can be released by Byron's sliding release, another weird plus.
Rodenstock APO Ronar 9/150 in #0 shutter
This lens takes extruding lens board, it is tiny, light-weight, easy to mount/un-mount, and very sharp. Though it is not a fast lens, but you can pick it in very reasonable price, and thinking of we always take pictures in rather slower aperture, like f/11or f/16, it is actually a good candidate for rangefolders.(to be continued.....)
150mm lenses Recommendation List to fit Byron:
Best!tiny, light weight and stay in fold up
1. Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150mm
Better.
directly mount, take off when fold up
1. Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (old version)2. Fujinar 6.3/15cm
3. Voigtlander 4.5/15cm (in #1 shutter)
4. Rodenstock APO Ronar 9/150
Better NOT!!
indirectly mount, take off when fold up
1. Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (new version)2. Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150
Don't Even Think About It!!
1. Xenotar 2.8/150 in #3 shutter
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