My Rangefolder Cameras

What a happy working day!

2012-01-12T17:00:00.004+08:00

Today is a great day! everything goes smoothly, even my ten fingers are fine, no one turns swollen.
Ha!

Welcome a new system into the family

2012-01-05T08:20:00.000+08:00

Fetched Ellen from airport last night, she came from NY city, for a lecture hold in Taipei, and brought bunch load of camera items I bought from eBay these year round. I bidd some items from ebay and asked sellers send them to Jeff's place, who lives in NY, then at the chance that Ellen coming to Taipei, she carries those stuff for me.

Overweight, she cried out as we met in the visiting hall, truly, a big case full of my equipment, and so many items I even don't remember ever bidding. I took her to the famous night market for best local food, to ease her and her stomach.

Late at about 2am, back home, I tore down each package, and found one Mamiya Press 23 Standard body laid still, reminds me that is the one I'm gonna study for my snappy wide 6x9.

I've bought the Sekor 50/6.3mm already, and loads of 6x7/6x9 film back, just wonder the flange distance of it, so plan to find a Mamiya body as parts, to make a research. I would like to follow the idea as a Chinese did in following images, but since Sekor 50/6.3 lens equipped with shutter, focus ring on it, actually all I need is to make a box in proper length to connect the lens with film back, to keep them in perfect flange distance, that's it!

But the camera body I bid, is in GREAT shape! RF focus is right on tack, bellows is almost new to me, and as I mount on the lens and film back, I realized that actually I've built a new camera system already!

Sad day, sad year

2011-12-16T00:01:00.000+08:00

One of my craftsman got stroke this summer while he practiced Japanese sword art, and still in coma now. But another craftsman just past away today......
My deepest.......don't know what to say.
Sad.
12/16 This morning is a cold and rainy day, sky looks dull and dark, I will go to see my pal last time, depressed....
12/19 Went to my craftsman's house again, Taipei is still raining, his family wept, including me.
12/20 Found one craftsman, who is old friend of the deceased, talked and he is willing to help, today I will go to his studio, and discuss with him, try to re-connect the job.
12/21 The one I worked with, intended to replace the deceased craftsman, is dis-qualify, I was disappointed with his work hobbit, and carelessly attitude, will find another one to cooperate.....

Courses keep growing

2011-12-14T22:16:00.000+08:00

Anyone notice the courses are going to bellows making already?
http://salihonbashome.blogspot.com/p/byron-diy-workshop.html

Course instructions keep on growing.....

2011-11-07T12:23:00.001+08:00

Please refer the related web page....
page contents will keep growing, until a chapter is finished, then goes to next chapter.

Class, if you are confused on specific step, write to me, let me know.

11/28 add
tomorrow will be back home, then Xenotar new front standard is going to released.

Workshop courses will post online gradually

2011-11-02T09:42:00.002+08:00

If you look carefully, will notice that I add a webpage named "Byron DIY workshop". That is for participants to follow the steps during DIY building their own Byron. However, some of the steps I think which are proper for anyone who is interested to learn some tips on DIY, may be post as public article. Some will be reserved for participants only.

The contents will be huge, and complicated, I hope to write in more detail and best with lots of photos and videos, so the posts will be add gradually, even will be refined if in need.

I am not a full time Byron camera builder, so all the time I can use is when I am off the job, please forgive the situation, but first course will be finished by this weekend.

Wish I could be getting old like him......

2011-10-23T14:31:00.000+08:00

You can't rush US!

Modified sheet film washer

2011-10-19T10:19:00.000+08:00

I modified a Kostiner roll film washer for both sheet/ roll film, it was ten years ago.
Kostiner film washer is a tube style in round shape, for it is designed for 135/ 120 roll film, sink developed film rolls into tube, let running water flow from bottom and overflow on top, with bubble generated with water, to clean films.

Round shape tube makes sheet film hard to use, and I managed to modify it into sheet/roll film washer.

1. Cut out the tube, leave square shape washer base, and re-glue the tube into a square shape.

2. Build sheet film hanger box, each box can hold 6 sheet films, 2 boxes make 12 sheet films washed at the same time.

3. Test, found out that film hanger needs to keep films in position to prevent running water brings films away. Washer holds four 120 format film rolls at same time.

4. For even better foolproof when inserting film into ditches, make separation of each film with arcylic tubes, effects are great!

5. Finally, build some small boxes to hold one hanger only, so I can use them as film fixer container or for water stain remover. I use BTZS tubes to develop films, and with this box, 500 c.c. of fixer can easily do their job, and this way I don't have to worry scratches generated during fixing step.

Byron workshop, half DIY your own camera!

2011-10-02T21:51:00.000+08:00

Time's up, thanks for the mails who are interested in the course. To those who receive confirmed mail for workshop, please send US$900 to my Paypal account sali.honba@msa.hinet.net, and prepare your camera + lenses, we should start at the end of this month.
Daniel
Tim wrote to me and he makes the point, that I set the deadline of application at 10/16, how come I reject others before the date?
So I will leave 2 more participants available for who send mails to me before 10/16, candidates will be considered after the date arrived, so no hurry, take your time, just send your mail before 10/16.
thank you very much.
6 participants, hope I can handle that well.....
***
Amazingly, 6 appliers for workshop already, so please do not send your mail to me now, workshop takes four participants only. thank you very much. Daniel
***

I've been thinking about this recently, since one of my craftsman got stroke months ago, I can't stop wondering, what if I GOT stroke, will my unique Polaroid 4x5 conversion discontinued?
Pass my thought to friends, and thinking of letting more people could own Byron camera, I would held an experimental workshop, to help participant build one.
But the procedure could be very difficult if all by instructions only, there are some steps which needs special tooling, and some steps need CNC lathe machine, not everyone could find a helping hand around.
So I will ask participants follow my instruction, in some steps, to send their parts to me, I will help them to finish those steps, and then let them go on to next step.
I envision there will be about two steps for sending back parts, by sending back their parts, I will enclose all the parts needed for building Byron, including those tailored parts that I designed, exclusive for Byron.
The most complicated parts now I think most people will encounter, will be at the step building bellows, not yet decide whether I will make one for each other, or let them try, so there will be sort of experiments in it, participant not only need to be skillful on DIY, prepare all kinds of hand tools, and need a lot of patience, willing to help me to perfect the instruction, so there will be one complete instruction left when the camera is build, workshop at the end.
Workshop will take about 3 months for the course. It should start at the end of this month. Instruction will be released one by one, as a step for every two weeks,
Cost will be US$900, including all parts and two shipping postage during the course, but I am asking if anyone is interested in this way of DIY, let me know, mail me, all I need is about 4 participants, besides hand tools, you have to prepare your own Polaroid 110B plus lenses you choose, (or 110A + 900) and the conversion type (limited in Type A or B), drop me a mail, we could communicate privately.
If you are interested in this way, please let me know before 10/16. You are not really in the workshop by sending mail, just let me know if there are people who are interested.

thank you very much.
Daniel
salihonba@gmail.com

ps. DIY instructions will not be published in public, only participants are allowed to login and read it.
You can choose one Prime lens for matching cam curve, that is, your range-coupled lens. I will grind the cam curve for you, but I need you send the lens to me. other lenses you choose for Byron will be un-coupled range finding.

Best dress for Byron camera

2011-09-29T06:56:00.001+08:00

Bob made wonderful type 55 instant film, named New55, and he made some gorgeous test shots.
http://black-gallery.blogspot.com/

Three types of Byron conversion

2011-09-24T19:26:00.000+08:00

Byron has been developed for about 6 years, during the period, concluding clients' feedback and some more request, the conversion service now had been categorized into three types, according to client's lens selected.

Lenses' focal range are limited in 75~150mm, any lens with focal length lesser or greater are not feasible for Byron. 75mm lens is the widest lens Byron can bear, and even in this lens, there is some 4~5mm on side will be blocked by rail, please read the related post. But the situation has been improved, I managed to move the lens a bit higher, to bypass the barrier, so 75mm lens is the set.

Type A, Byron as snap shooter
Snap shoots on streets with a 4x5 format rangefolder is what the original idea when I developed Byron system, and the purpose needs a camera with speed on operation and as lightweight as possible.

Lens board for type A is in circular shape, about 60mm in diameter, when lens board threaded with #0 shutter, it is so tiny that you bare notice there exist a board with the lens, it takes no space, has advantages when traveling light, and stored in bag, that is important for street snaps.

Lenses selected based on the criteria mentioned above, we need lens could be stayed in camera when folded, so it could be ready to shoot whenever fold out, so lens should be tiny, shutter limited in #0 or even smaller, and the rear element should be no bigger than 44.8mm in diameter.

What the lenses I recommend for this type of conversion are:

Schneider Angulon 6.8/90mm
*Schneider Symmar-S 5.6/100mm
Carl Zeiss Tessar 4.5/105mm
Carl Zeiss Tessar 4.5/120mm
Rodenstock Ysarex 4.7/127mm (original lens on 110B camera)
*Fujinon W 5.6/135mm
**Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150mm (or Caltar II-E 6.3/150mm)

They are all small enough to stay in camera when fold, and the image coverage is just enough for 4x5 format.

(*Lens must be taken off before camera folded.)

(**In type A conversion, 150mm lenses are limited in Geronar or Caltar II-E only, for they have shorter flange to focal image distance, which just great for type A conversion, other 150mm lenses such as Apo-Symmar 5.6/150, Apo-Ronar 9/150mm or Nikkor/Fuji lenses, their flange-focal image distance just exceed rail end, so they all fall into type B conversion, which has different front standard, can solve the longer f-f distance problem.)

Type B, Byron for those big rear lenses
Many modern design and better optical performance lenses have big front or rear elements, or with bigger aperture, bigger shutter.

Clients want to use them, and don't really care of the carrying issue or lens exchanging on field problem, they own these lenses already, and hope to migrant them onto Byron.

In this type, a new front standard and lens board system were developed to fulfill the purpose, any lens in #0 or #1 shutter is acceptable, and if the rear element is within 60mm in diameter, the lens could be mounted directly, no need to screw off the rear first. Due to the size, lens must be taken off before camera is folded.

What the lenses most situation I encounter, and they are able to be mounted directly without problems,

Rodenstock Grandagon-n 4.5/75mm (rear dia. 59.8mm)
Sinaron W 4.5/75mm (rear dia. 59.8mm)
Schneider Super Angulon 8/90mm (rear dia. 56.8mm)
Schneider symmar 5.6/100mm
Carl Zeiss Planar 2.8/100mm (in #1 shutter)
Schneider Angulon 6.8/120mm (in #1 shutter)
Schneider Xenotar 3.5/135mm (in #1 shutter, rear dia. 47.7mm)
Voigtlander Apo-Lanthar 4.5/150mm (in #1 shutter)
Voigtlander Heliar 4.5/150mm (in #1 shutter)
Schneider Apo Symmar 5.6/150mm
Rodenstock Apo Ronar 9/150mm
Nikkor/ Fuji 150mm lens

Type X, only for Xenotar 2.8/150mm
This is a big, heavy lens that many photographers want to use it on portrait for its bokeh, for this special lens, I have developed a variety from type B, exclusive for this lens.

Xenotar 2.8/150mm lens must be mounted on a #2 shutter, I know it is hard to find for such a shutter, but Byron just can not take normal #3 shutter anymore, too big in size.

The rear element is 62.85mm in diameter, Xenotar must first screw off the rear element, mount onto the standard, then screw back the rear.

Not only front standard needs to be enforced, rail and many other parts need to be re-adjust to allocate this big boy, the cam curve needs greater precision for its super shallow DOF too.

Oh, recently I saw other conversion service on ebay, also for Xenotar 2.8/150, although I did not see any image about the converted camera for Xenotar 2.8/150 yet, but the service charge do really THUNDERSTRUCK me a bit!

Xenotar 135/3.5 on SL66

2011-09-14T15:54:00.002+08:00

I dug my dehumidifier yesterday for my spared #2 shutter, and I found one long forgot Xenotar 135/3.5 sat there stared at me, I bought it last years, and then quickly shift my interest into big brother 150/2.8, this one left in the box till now.

It came as a barrel lens, with iris only, but I managed to fit it with a proper #1 shutter, and so there it can be mounted on Byron, or on my SL66.

This lens did not need extension tube, you can see bellows extends just about 1.5inch and you got infinity already, if you extend bellows to the end, focus can be as near as 1.5 feet.

Next time I will try to mount this beauty onto Byron, 135mm is quite wide for 4x5 snaps.

How to read Kindle in bed with one hand

2011-09-13T22:40:00.001+08:00

I love to read, especially while laying in bed, I can read all day in winter days, just head and hand outside of the blanket.

But with e-book like Kindle, it is nearly impossible to hold the device one hand only, it forces you to hold the device with two hands, or you will drop the book, or your hand feel awkward sour.

I searched the web, to see other people how they solve the problem, there are so many ppl love to read on bed, they must have good ideas to make the reading comfortable and cozy, but I hardly found one satisfy my need.

So I thought of many ways to "stick" Kindle in my palm, rubber band, silicon ring with wire, glove that with many small suckers...... and then this one is the most easy and comfort one.

All you need is a kitchen cleaning sponge, with a big silicon sucker in middle, to hold the sponge on wall tile. The cost is about US$1.5 here in Taiwan. we need the sucker only, let sponge stay in kitchen.

Make it suck at the back of the device, there you go, you can place it anywhere on the back, sometimes I read when at breakfast, I place the sucker at the middle top of the back, thus make it a good reading angle when placed on the table.

For improving the strength of sucker to hold, I use a piece of cutting sheet on back, make the sucker to hold the device, unless you pull it really hard, the sucker won't let go, no risk falling the device.

When laying in bed, I place it at lower corner, to fit my hand, so I can hold my Kindle one hand, and my thumb could help press the page down button.

cam curve for Geronar 6.3/150

2011-09-06T22:56:00.000+08:00

The red curve is for 6.3/150mm Geronar lens.

Compare this lens with Xenotar, Heliar, apo-symmar 150 lenses, the curve is interesting different with them, Geronar has its own character, no wonder it has shortest rail movement for infinity stop.

Consistency of RF mechanism

2011-08-27T13:24:00.001+08:00

Had been measured and plotted 6 RF mechanisms last week, to verify their consistent performance, thus if they are, we can refer it as a constant, so the only variation of the cam curve is from lens focal performance.

To measure each one, mount the RF part, zeroing it by focus to infinity and make overlay images in window match well, then use this as zero point, focus at other distance, here I choose 8m, 7m, 6, 5, 4m, 3m, 2.4, 2.1m, 1.8m, 1.5, 1.2, 1.0m as target, and record the moving distance of the mirror arm, then plotting the curve representing the records.

Except curve No.4, all six curves has very similar character, indicates the RF mechanism is fairly consistent at their performance on focusing, but there DOES has mechanism like curve No.4, whose character is different, I would call it a "mine", for it is impossible to find out before you bought such a vintage camera produced sixty years ago, actually you could not expect too much. Luckily most people didn't convert 110B as an lens interchanging camera, so they never know.

Nevertheless, most of the RFs are good, but I prefer inspect one by one, before I made the dedicated cam grinding.

Grinding Ground Glass

2011-08-11T19:24:00.010+08:00

Never expect it so hard to buy grinding grit in Taiwan.

My previous version of gg panel was made of bakelite, and the ground glass is a piece of transparent acrylic sheet in 3mm thickness, frosted surface is from a thin layer of laminator sheet sandwiched between Fresnel lens and acrylic sheet.

Laminate sheet sleeve is for laminator to hot press the sandwiched photos or id card, to form a protect cover, very thin, fine evenly distributed frosted surface, but after hot press and rolled out from laminator, it becomes transparent. It is easy to get in any stationary store, and in 100sheet pack, you can choose any size you want, in my case, 4x6 inch sleeve is enough, I had to cut some edges.

I tried Scotch Magic tape before, but in my own opinion, laminator sheet is better.

Last week I received new version aluminum gg panel, some minor modifications from previous version. Panel surface was sand blasted and dyed in matte black, looked much better quality than bakelite one. I put in Fresnel lens, laminator sheet, and then finally acrylic sheet on top, fixed with folding hood and six screws with washers. Left one is the new version, six big washer help fix the hood also the ground glass, and screw holes on hood edges are far more robust than old version, not easy to crack anymore, and looks more flat at side.

But then I compared my gg panel with the one on my Linhof Tech IV, first focus with Linhof gg panel, then replace it with my panel, my frosted surface obviously coarser, thought the focal point is dead on.

I thought that Byron is dedicated for snaps, and gg panel is for occasionally used as view camera, so the gg panel is not so critical. But as some requests from clients asking for better quality ground glass, and since the panel is upgraded from bakelite to aluminum, maybe I should consider a finer frosted surface.

I ordered some 3mm thick glass panels, and acrylic panels too.

There are articles about "how to make your own ground glass", easy to find them on web, but the grinding grit, aluminum oxide in 15 micron is not a common product to find in Taiwan's auction market, I made some calls, and most of store sells them in bulk package, 20 or 25kg, that is too much to me, I can use it for the rest of my life and to my son, and to my grandson!

Finally a shop is willing selling me in 2kg package, but in higher price, what can I say? I almost kneel down and kiss his feet.

Took a glass sheet in about A2 size as plate, I sprayed a tea spoonful of grit on it, with some drips of water, then acrylic panel face down, I began to made rotate grinding on it.

To made it easier to hold the panel while in grinding, I used a silicon sucker which has a big handle on it, so rotate the panel on glass is smooth and easy, no fingers directly touch the panel, avoiding any chance that wrong side of sheet got ground.

About 5 min for a panel, then I immersed the panel into water, wiped it with a towel, to check if there is any hot spot, there is, especially at the center, means that sucker makes center get less pressure, so I had to leave the panel away, with fingers evenly pressed on panel, make second rotation grinding.

That's about another 5minutes, then a panel with evenly frosted surface is done! With same way I make glass panel too, comparing two panels as ground glass, I can not tell the difference.

But since I made frosted glass myself, I should compare new panel (Fresnel lens+ frosted acrylic sheet) with older panel (Fresnel lens+ laminate sheet+ transparent acrylic sheet), to see if there any improvement.

I focused the same object, with two versions of gg panel.

This is from old version (Fresnel lens+ laminate sheet+ transparent acrylic sheet), there is some circular pattern on frosted surface, that is from Fresnel lens.

And this is from new version, Fresnel lens+ frosted acrylic sheet. Fresnel lens pattern is also distinguishable, but less than old one.

It's not so obviously to tell in taken images, but it's easy to tell by naked eyes that frosted acrylic is finer than laminate sheet with transparent acrylic.

But there will be two options for clients to choose, acrylic sheet is lighter and not so easy to crack if falling; while glass sheet is heavier and prone to crack if falling on floor, but better scratch resistance.

Which one will you choose? Acrylic? Glass?

OMG!

2011-07-29T19:39:00.000+08:00

Too hot these days, one of my assistant crafts master got stroke when he practiced kendo, and in Persistent vegetative state now, what a pity!

He is only 54 now.

busy week

2011-07-23T21:57:00.000+08:00

This week I'm gonna finish this conversion batch, forgive me for no further information on RF.

Some Ideas on Range-Coupled mechanism

2011-07-13T15:22:00.001+08:00

Thinking of range-coupled mechanism these days, just came out of some ideas. No matter Linhof or Graphic, Horseman or other brands 4x5 cameras, if installed with rangefinders, all need a match cam for specific lens, otherwise no range-coupled functions available.
People are troubled when they tried to find lens and matched lens cam, the pair are rare to find these days, and the price always sky high, handheld 4x5 photography restricted by this, so called range coupled 4x5 almost vanished.
What if

Range coupled function needs no match lens cam.
Any lens can be range coupled, no matter what camera used.
Lens calibration needs no professional expert. one lens can be calibrated in 10 minutes.

The idea came out these days, and I thought of this can be applied by any 4x5 camera, even 8x10! what will it be involved in LF photography history?
Too excited! can not sleep at night.

an interesting discussion here:
http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?t=79196

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part6

2011-07-08T01:16:00.006+08:00

Now there goes to final part of RF calibration.

We match the lens with rangefinder with a tailored cam, so camera can be range coupled with ONE specific lens, but that is all it can do, if you want to use other lenses, these lenses are range UN-coupled, that is, rangefinder as a pure rangefinder only, reading out the rangefinder indicates, then we adjust the lens position to match the focus.

What if we could change this ONE-LENS-ONLY range coupled camera into a multi-lenses RF camera? I thought about this for years, and many clients asked the same question also, everyone wants multi range coupled function.

Here I list some issues on this conversion as follow:

Multi cam
More than one lens range coupled needs more than one more cam, how many cam possibly be installed on a camera?
As we measured, each cam needs at least 40° of rotation, so as 360° divided by 40°, maximum we can make 8 cams simultaneously be installed on one camera, but that is too much and too complicated, I would say 3 cams is enough.
Each cam separated and distributed at every 120°, that leaves enough space and tolerance to mechanism.

Stacked cam and rotating pole shape

Each cam curve is dedicated to match a specific lens, there may be differences between lenses, although they are in the same focal length, or even the same type. So it is impossible to order a batch of 3-in-1 cams that restrict clients to use only 3 pre-defined lenses, and since lens has its own character, to amend the outer curve in such a 3-in-1 is tiresome.

Best way is to separated each cam, stack 3 in a row according to each client's specific request.

But for keeping these cam staying at their rotating angle (120°), we should change the rotating pole from circular shape into a triangular shape.

Mirror arm and cams

As mentioned above, best way for multi-cam is to stack them to match the clients' request, but the original shape of the cam is un-stack-able, it is too thick.

You can see that original cam is thick to mirror arm, so this installation is unfeasible to 3-in-1 stack cam design, what we should do, is to reverse the mirror arm- cam relation, that is , to make mirror arm a thick arm, and make the cam a thin metal sheet. Such arrangement makes mirror arm easily be triggered by stacked cams, and metal sheet cam makes stacked thickness in bearable range. And the greatest advantage is to make cam much easier to file, to tailor its outer curve to match the lens character.

Field operations
If we solve all the problem mentioned above, the final problem arise as how to operate this mechanism in field. We need a knob to rotate the cam pole, to match the lens we change, that involves changing the outlook of the RF housing, but pity there is no space for it in my opinion, best way is to re-design and re-mold the RF housing, but consider the quantity and mold making cost, I stop at this place and never go any further.

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part5

2011-06-25T01:49:00.003+08:00

Last step on paper work, then we can go on to practical procedure.

By measuring rangefinder character and lens focus moving range, now we are going to combine two focus system into one-- cam, this cam will be inter-interpreting two systems, to sync each other in one. But bear in mind, one cam is synchronized with one lens, not all lenses mounted on camera.

Let's see how to do it. if there is a 150mm lens we are going to use for range-coupled with rangefinder, then before a dedicated cam is made, we need to measure the rangefinder character (A) and lens focus moving range in advance (B).

Refer two relations between (A) and (B), we begin to draw dedicated cam's outer curve.

Define radius center and zero point.
cam rotate pole radius is 2.8mm, and the zero point is 6.36mm
The light blue dash line represents 127mm cam that Polaroid originally installed.
The mirror rotates or moves as cam outer curve changes, if the outer curve is aligned with orange dash line, which is a circle in fixed radius, then no matter how you rotate the cam, mirror will always stays at the same position.

Mirror moves as cam outer curve keeps changing it's radius (black line), outer curve across orange curve at zero point, distance between two curves is 0 at it. Outer curve is more or less radius than orange curve at other rotating angles, and according to the lens/rangefinder relations, radius changes differently.
Use orange line as reference, to point out all the radius changes.
As we measured before, cam rotates within 39° range as rail moves within 20.5mm range, effective outer curve will extended 10° more on both side, for easier installation in future.

Draw lines across the orange curve, all lines radiate from pole center, distributed every 10°, these are the reference points.
According to the lens/ rangefinder measuring data, we now locate each reference point. Let's say while we measure the rangefinder, and find out the data as follows
infinity 0
30m 0.04
15m 0.07
10m 0.1
8m 0.12
6m 0.16
4.5m 0.22
3.6m 0.28
3m 0.35
2.4m 0.44
1.8m 0.52
1.5m 0.6
1.2m 0.73
1.0m 0.88
0.9m 1.01
and the data was transfered into characteristic curve

Another data comes from measuring lens focus moving range

notice the y-axis in this chart, it transfer rail moving range(mm) into rotating degree, as rail moves within 20.5mm range and cam rotates within 39°, so even distributes two measurement, safely transfer two units.

find the focus distance at 10°, 20°, 30°, 39°, in chart above we get 4.45m, 2.4m, 1.7m and 1.35m. Then we back to the rangefinder chart, to locate 4.45m, 2.4m, 1.7m and 1.35m. we find that radius should add 0.24mm, 0.43mm, 0.56mm, 0.68mm accordingly.
Drag reference points on orange curve according data we just read out from charts, move them to proper distance to reflect the variations.

Then draw a smooth curve across all reference points,
Enclose the curve with cam outline, make it a dedicated Geronar 6.3/150mm lens cam for 110B.

to compare new 150mm lens cam to original 127mm cam, you can tell the differences on outer curves. (orange curve: 127mm cam)

so this conclude cam design paper work, what left is to make this dedicated cam for your camera.

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part4

2011-06-23T00:30:00.004+08:00

Rangefinder
First system to be measured is RF parts.
We need to draw a rangefinder characteristic curve, to represent it's focus range. so there is a chart, focus distance in x-axis, and y-axis is the mirror moving range.
As we all agree, that Polaroid mass produced 110B cameras, so rangefinder part should represent same character in every camera body, but after measuring so many rangefinders, I found out that they all have their own characters. Maybe the camera was for 3x4 instant film, no image enlargement required, so it tolerates for range variety, but it is intolerable if we use this rangefinder on 5x4 camera.

Each rangefinder on Byron will be measure their characteristic curve individually, record and draw in chart, for further matching their prime lens.

To quick finish this tedious job, I managed to use a laser beam to do the focus, no need to peek all the time, thus won't hurt my eyes too much.

The measuring result will be something like this.

Lens
Lens measuring is simple and straightforward, you mount the lens on a 5x4 camera, set it focus at infinity, then define this location as zero point. As we already know that 110B rail has 20.5mm moving range, so we should find out the focus range this lens has in 20.5mm rail movement.

Stick a simple ruler at the side of the rail, and a pin as a pointer, now you can focus object at different distance and record the rail movement.

The result should be as early post I made "Lens Curves".

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part3

2011-06-20T22:45:00.002+08:00

So actually there are two focus systems, one by focus through lens, and one by focus through RF mirror.
Lens mount on front standard, from infinity to someplace near, limited by the moving range of camera rail, 110B rail got maximum moving range 20.5mm, for 150mm lens, it's about to 1.5m; for 127mm lens, about 1.0m; for 90mm lens, about 0.6m.
Rangefinder rotates mirror to adjust focus, by measuring 127mm lens cam, I found out that RF mirror rotates only 1mm to accomplish focus range from infinity to 1m.

How to synchronize lens and RF? that's what cam stands for. different lens needs different cam, cam with different outer curve. Outer curve comes from lens focal length. for 90mm lens, it can be set focus range from infinity to 0.6m, much wider than 127mm lens (i~1.0m) or 150mm lens (i~1.5m), so 90mm lens cam outer curvature steeper, 150mm lens cam outer curvature flatter.
Later I will show you how to synchronize two systems.

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part2

2011-06-18T11:30:00.001+08:00

Here are three main factors that you should know before you made a cam to fit to a lens.

1. Lens: You should know the range that lens can move on the rail, it is fixed range on 110B. But most important factor is within the moving range, how will the lens focus change?
Take 150mm lens as example, within the 110B rail moving range, it can focus between infinity to about 1.5m; in the same moving range, a 90mm lens can focus as near as 0.6m.

2. cam: cam curve controls the rotating range of the mirror, but cam rotates itself as rail moves, you should find out the cam rotation related to rail moving range.

3. RF mirror: All RF parts are fixed except mirror, it moves to change the RF focal point, I have shown you that for a 127mm lens, all the mirror moving range needed is within 1mm, but how about 150mm lens? how about 90mm lens?
Rail moving range is fixed, thus made 150mm lens to 1.5m, 127mm lens to 1.05m, 90mm lens to 0.6m. So we know that 1mm moving range for 127mm lens, and that will cover 150mm lens as well, but not enough for 90mm lens, we should extend beyond 1mm to reach the 0.6m focal point, it needs extended measures.

Rangefinder calibrations on 110B- part1

2011-06-15T21:51:00.000+08:00

There is a mirror on rotation, according to the cam curves, thus each cam for different lens, will have different curve, reflecting the focal length.

this is cam for 127mm lens,

Vertical line on cam surface indicates when lens is focus on infinity. and as rotating in hole center, each degree of outer curve on top is keeping changing the radius distance, causing mirror rotate.

But how long the radius range a cam causes?

I used a usb micro scope to take photo of cam, and enlarged it, then make some distance measures.

After carefully measuring, converting digits into a curve, we found that outer curve of 127mm cam actually causes mirror rotate within 1mm range.

That means a lot, range finder that 110B equipped, focus from infinity to near 3.5feet, all controlled within 1mm range.

Spot head for SL66

2011-06-13T06:07:00.000+08:00

Just bought a new Kiev spot prism head from Ukraine, new. and bought an adapter board for it, to fit it on SL66, from German.
So, it looks good, I can read the measures directly through the lens, no matter what lens I am on!

2011, new plans

2011-01-04T20:34:00.000+08:00

New year, new ideas.

First thing to do, to move the contents on this blog to my web, it started a little, www.rangefolder.com,

then, some experiments on wide angle folder for 120, well, maybe not folder, because Mamiya press 6.3/50 needs no fold in, I want to mount it directly on a 6x9 film back.

and for Xenotar, the big eye project should be continued.

now, I got a new job in a design group months ago, a new concept platform, and I've design several products already, including LED lamps and a series of dinning ware. So there will be little time for conversion service in the future, I am sorry if you are in the waiting list, but new job is so exciting, I rarely go home before 9pm.

One set of Byron for sale!

2010-11-18T20:08:00.002+08:00

I have one set of Byron on batch line, waiting for his master.
It is converted from 110B body, will be equipped with 4.7/127 and Angulon 6.8/90, all lenses in good condition.
the price is US$2,000
I will finish this batch and catch up the X'mas, so prize yourself a great present!

contact me if you are interested

salihonba@gmail.com

daniel

thank you for being interested in the kit, it is sold!

Byron for Xenotar 150/2.8 demo video

2010-10-27T15:05:00.000+08:00

Finally, I made it!
Klaus, Jong, your big eye camera is on the way!

200cm print! Jeff made it with Byron.

2010-09-28T09:18:00.002+08:00

Jeff Yuan, a molecular biologist and a photographer with Chinese painting style, recently exhibited his long rolls of print made with Byron.

Here is part of what he wrote to me:

"You can see some of my newest work at www.jyuanimages.info under Landscape Series 2010. For the very long horizontal panoramic images, I put the camera on a tripod and shoot a picture, roll the film a bit, pan the camera and shoot another picture. This way I create a very wide panoramic image on one roll of film."

"To print these images, I scan the interpositives and make a digital negative. From the digital negative I make a platinum/palladium contact print. For the very longest images, they are over 200cm in length. It is a long tedious process."

To me, it definitely reminds me Chinese painting arts.

I am still alive!

2010-09-24T18:50:00.002+08:00

Hey, don't get buzzed, I am still alive, just very slow on progress.........

Welcome to Xenotar club

2010-08-19T20:24:00.001+08:00

One goes to NY, one goes to Texas, one goes to Germany. 6 of Xenotar lenses this batch, next 3 will be on 2 weeks later.

This summer class is the most difficult one I ever met! Too hot to do the conversion, and all kind of challenges jumps out during the job, from places you never think of, take bellows as example, I made about 6 bellows prototype, and modified blue print 16 times, finally grabbed the key.

Then the front standard, factory went wrong on dimension FOUR times! can you imagine?! It is damn too hot!

Not yet mounting the RF housing, tonight's job.

Look carefully, the left one is a little bit small size on bellows, will replace it after shooting.

Bellows, bellows....

2010-08-03T11:56:00.002+08:00

Bellows was re-sized for Xenotar 150, thinking that no matter the extension length or front opening size, is perfect fit to Big Eyes.

Mounting Xenotar 150 is an in-direct procedure, rear element needs to be taken off before front element/shutter mounted, then screw back the rear element.

I keep the bellows in no extension situation when screwing back the rear element, then the problem comes. Bellows is so perfect fit to the lens, the front opening size is just slightly bigger than rear element, so when I screwed the rear in no extension situation, some folds in front of the bellows were clipped, that is Ok since bellows has enough folds for rail movement, but it looks awful. Folds will not be clipped if you screwing the rear when bellows extended in half or full length, but that makes a deep hole and brings difficulty for screwing.

Solution? re-size the bellows, make front opening size even bigger, so no folds were clipped when bellows in no extension situation.

Byron got three version of bellows sizes now, Khaki color shows opening for #0 shutter lens, Blue opening shows the size for any other lenses other than Xenotar 150, and the Gray one shows the opening size exclusively for Xenotar 150, the Big Eyes.

All three sizes are bigger than 110B's original bellows.

And the RF parts was sent for fine tuning, for this lens, mechanist told me he needs to take part all RF parts, we will wait and see.

Before it came back, I made Byron as a simple view camera, and test the stability. Lens is heavy, but front standard works well. Without RF viewing windows, and my model keeps moving on chair, it is hard to capture him and the little tree he planted.

No folds are clipped if rear element is mounted when bellows extension in full length, but rather hard to do, and you can see one front side ridge of bellows were bumped..., reasons for re-sizing a bigger bellows is obviously clear.

Film expired? no matter developing time I changed, saturation is way less than what I saw.

Big eyes are coming

2010-07-28T01:22:00.000+08:00

Finally, this conversion batch is going to on calibration stage, meaning they will be home soon, I hope the owners are not too rush, I can vision that calibration for Xenotar 2.8/150 is more critical compared to other 150mm lenses.

Weather is uncommonly hot, not easy to work and keep calm for a long period of time, and how is your place? Global warming is coming, and no one can stop it!

What the hell is going on this summer?

2010-07-08T21:17:00.003+08:00

Too hot! everyday I made jars of lemonade and still not enough to deal with the weather, my dog Sam gets very lazy, lying on the floor everyday, only thing to make sure he is alive is calling his name and to see if his tail wave or not.

I got sunburn on my arms and feet, only 30min to convenient store on bike, no way you can get rid of it, BIG HOT sun, it must be the hottest summer I ever have, but who know next year?

On the final stage of this batch, now I do works most of time in midnight, much cooler, and kids are all sleep, no need to fight with them, I am captain Hook in their game, one of the leading role.

Re-Open this blog for answering the request

2010-07-07T12:46:00.001+08:00

Hi, everyone who is concerning this blog, I am working on a special batch of conversion, the Big eyes for Byron, and am re-organizing the contents, planning to re-open the blog next month, but I found that I am stupid to answer lots of mails to explain this situation, so here I re-open the blog, but you will find that most of contents are taken off, for they are going to be re-organized.

So, this blog will show you something new next month, please be patient, and, leave me some message if you really like my blog, I too need some encouragement.

Thank you very much
Daniel
salihonba@gmail.com

This blog is going to close for awhile.

2010-06-17T08:40:00.011+08:00

One bad news, I will close my blog from July for a short period of time, due to some annoyed people and the unknown virus attacks and I've had enough!

"Something you should know about Byron version 2" in progress

2010-06-09T09:01:00.004+08:00

Hope I can finish it by the end of this month......

I did not realize that Byron will develop a different version of front standard/ lens board system, all these are inspired by my dearest clients.

Inspired by HK Jack, flim holder blocking plate transfer into a rotating way, eliminate the risk of losing it; by Walter, a level bubble add at the top of RF housing; by NY Jeff, Xenotar 2.8/150 becomes available on Byron, and by German Bear, I developed new front standard/ lens board for his 270mm lens.

Thank all of you, you bring Byron system so many great ideas, and turn it more flexible.

But Jack, to bring #3 shutter into system.........., that is really scary.....

New front standard/ lens board for big eyes

2010-05-22T08:54:00.012+08:00

New front standard and lens board will look like this

Opening hole on front standard is 61mm in diameter, the maximum it can hold, of course I can drill bigger hole, but original front standard is not able to, so that is it.

There will be milled down a little bit on face, to accommodate the lens board, and to make light trapping. There is no dent or opening for recessed plane, so when lens board mounting on, it is light-proof.

Two custom made screws to hold the bottom of the board, I deliberated to make them only about 1.2mm blocking the board, for this it doesn't need too great angle to slip the board in place.

And at top there is a spring locking mechanism, a very simple design, which I am proud of, will show you when all finish testing.

The lens board, no problem for #2 shutter, 2.7mm in thickness, very sturdy. and the shape is simple, even you can do your own.

And I think Emily can use this too.

(28/05 add)
Received front standard parts I ordered, unfortunately the thickness and the holes positions are out of tolerance, factory promised to re-make these parts, all I can do now is waiting.

But I am planning to make version 2 of "Something you should know about Byron", so many improvements after version 1 released, and while this new front standard/ lens board system, there will be two kind of lens board/ front standard to choose.

If your lenses are all in #0 shutter, use the round circular lens board.
If any one of your lenses equipped with shutter other than #0, use the rectangular lens board/ front standard

conversion cost will be adjusted accordingly.

(01/06 add)
Prototype came back this afternoon, new front standard is easy to use. Here two types of front standard sit side by side, with circular/ rectangular lens board accordingly.

New front standard has a sliding lock at the top, it is big, so you can grab it with fingers very easy.

You hold the sliding lock and pull it upward, that release the lens board, you release the lock, with help of springs, lock slides back and locks the board, that easy.

Front view of prototype, light trap around lens board keeps light away.

Like I said before, this front standard is great when you use big eyes, here are what I tested.. two Xenotar 2.8/150 with #2 shutter, one Xenotar 3.5/135 with #1 shutter, one Tele Arton 5.5/270 with #1 shutter, one Super Angulon 8/90 with #0 shutter, one Grandagon 4.5/75 with #0 shutter.
Only Xenotar 2.8/150 needs to be mounted in-directly, others all are capable of directly mounted.

Thanks to NY Jeff, push me to solve problem mounting Xenotar 2.8/150 on Byron, without him, I would not make it!

This is the biggest lens Byron can hold, rear element is too big, can not mount the lens directly, what a pity.
Funny thing is that almost emails came asking about Xenotar 150 are fashion photographers, but that make sense, this heavy big lens is too bulky for snaps.

Tele Arton 5.5/270, very easy to mount on, but I need to test the rail limit.

And for Grandagon 4.5/75; SA 8/90 and Xenotar 3.5/135, this front standard is easy to mount directly.

Now is time for minor modifications, round corners, dimension adjusts......
and matte black surface paint.

Bear in Bosnia 05/10

2010-05-20T10:30:00.024+08:00

The steam locomotive chaser....I think it is a 80mm lens on Byron, with Linhof zoom viewfinder. Wish I can travel like him, pack light with Byron.

Checking gears before leaving Germany to Bosnia, beer cheers!! This guy loves locomotives so much, watch the background!!

I love to watch workers snap, reading their faces like reading books. reminds me Josef Koudelka.

He said 'I took some polaroids with Byron, one of them is a real artwork. And now I have a scanner (Epson V700) in Odessa and I will do my first steps into scanning. On weekend I will start with scanning :-)'

We wait, Bear.

Xenotar Byron

2010-05-08T11:29:00.016+08:00

Target for this month-- finish first batch of Xenotar Byron conversion, one for NY Jeff, one for myself..

To breaking the limits of original 110A/B front standard, to mount bigger size lens/shutter, I did try many ways to expand its ability, from beginning the target was to accept #0 shutter only, then by add additional spacer ring, now Byron accepts #1 shutter too, but due to the 'bottle neck' that spacer ring brings, some lens with big rear element is limited.
Lens board study
150 Lens mount study

For even bigger lens like Xenotar 2.8/150, that mount on a #2 shutter (Yes! #2 shutter, not #3!!), I had to re-design whole front standard to take it. But at least initial test showed it is possible! see here:
Project I'm possible
The nearest distance Xenotar can get

Now, for a easier way to mount/un-mount this big eye, I need to develop another front standard/ lens board system, differ from the previous version.

They will be similar to normal view camera, with a somewhat rectangular lens board, and front standard will have a spring clip to lock the board.

The board, with maximun size of open hole to 60mm, Byron surely expands its lenses option, and since front standard extrudes a little bit, avoiding struts conflicting with shutter, so #2 shutter is possible too.

But the best thing this new system brings, is the opportunity to embrace 75mm wide angle lens without any difficulty. Previous version lens board takes 75mm too, but camera bed will block a little bit at one side, shading the image.
75mm lens on Byron

With new design, it may be no problem any more, but I need test first.

New system is specifically designed for big size lenses, it may not allow lens to stay in camera body when folded. I will try to keep the lens in, if lens board reverse the direction.

Oh, another minor thing, bellows needs new size too, for those big rear...

I got a Grandagon 4.5/75mm lens in #0 shutter, the one shown in image above, a beauty.

New front standard/ lens board system plans to take this lens as wide angle end limit, not because front standard extruding or backward some distance, to avoid the blocking of camera bed, but by rising the lens a little bit.

It is about 7mm blocking on one side of frame, caused by lens backward too much thus camera bed shades the frame. It is no use to change lens board or front standard, because the distance requirement between lens and focal plane is fixed when focusing at infinity.

The only chance to avoid the blocking, is to rise the lens.

I checked Grandagon data, it has 195mm image circle in f22, so there is plenty area to move.

Image above shows the reason one side of frame is blocked, 75mm lens is way too much backward, thus makes camera bed extruding and blocking the frame. On other LF camera like Technika, camera bed can be dropped a bit, to avoid the blocking, but Byron can not drop the bed.

Another way to solve the problem is by rising the lens a bit, makes less blocking area, thus eliminates the shading in negative area.

This way works in two conditions, 1. lens image circle is big enough for rising. 2. lens rises enough distance.

195mm image circle is big enough for rising, the only problem is how high can we rise the lens?

In new front standard/ lens board system, front standard opening size is big, 61mm in diameter! Even bigger than previous version's lens board (60mm). images above shows that a #0 shutter should be able to rise no less than10mm, I believe it should solve the blocking problem.

But again, I need the test to approve it.

And why 61mm in dia. opening? Well, I want to directly mount the lens, and Grandagon 75 has a 60mm dia. rear, that is why.

(16/05 add)

Just back from factory, lens board spring clip parts are so small, and complicated, very difficult to assembly, and I don't like the effect, need to find a simpler way to hold the board......

(18/05 add....)

Had reduced spring clip into one part only, with spring(s), and bolts.
(To be continued..)

I believe in Karma too!

2010-05-02T14:48:00.004+08:00

Hear Hear! to our hero who fights back!

Rangefinder calibration on Byron

2010-05-01T13:29:00.175+08:00

Rangefinder camera needs calibration for some reasons, maybe caused by vibration, camera hit the ground, loosing screws...., anyway, if you found that the overlay images in viewing window mis-aligned or the photos are out of focus, it's time to check it out.
There is not much information about 110B rangefinder calibration on internet, the best I can find is from Option8, master of Polaroid camera conversion/ modification.
While Byron is a little bit different from other conversion, so it provides more options for rangefinder calibration, easier and faster to finish the job.
In common case, calibration can be done by turning two screws on the back of mirror, that is...

Focus at the infinity, then turn the screws, to align the overlay images in the view window,
Then focus at something near, then turn the screws, to align the overlay images in the view window,
Leave the focus between near and far to the cam curve.

Two screws adjust mirror's horizontal/ vertical movements. as image below shows, upper left screw adjusts overlay image horizontal to move left (clockwise) or right (counter clockwise) direction; Lower right screw adjust overlay image vertical to move downward (clockwise) or upward direction (counter clockwise)

It is not so easy to remember which turn to which direction, so I developed a 'Right Hand Rule' to help remembering it.
When you adjust the overlay image, and don't remember which direction screw should turn, use your right hand like this, thumb represents horizontal screw, index finger represents vertical screw, and they are now showing the direction if you turn screws clockwise!
Now back to the calibration procedure mentioned earlier, you see that no matter at infinity or at near object, only two screws available for adjustment. Isn't that funny if you align the image at infinity, then at near object requires adjustment too, won't it ruin the first alignment???
In many forums discussing about RF adjustment, people always puzzled in this dead alley, aligned image at one end, but the other is not, and then back and forth, drives people crazy, still in dead alley.
Actually there is another place to adjust the overlay image, it is the fixed screw in the middle, by loosing it a bit, you can make whole RF mechanical part turn, thus move the image horizontally, by tighten or loosing the screw, you can move the image vertically.

So there are two sets of adjustment for overlay image alignment, with one set at infinity, and other set for near object focus, thus won't ruin the previous calibration.
In theory this should satisfy all calibration required, but there is always exception. If you align both infinity and near end, but the adjustment always ruin the other one, no matter how you adjust, it just can't match both ends, in this case, it must be something wrong on cam.
This situation happens when you use the wrong section of cam curve.
If you ever read my post of lens curves, then you knew that the relationship of distance between 'lens to focused object' (L-O) and 'lens to focal plane' (L-F) never be a linear ratio. When focusing at infinity, we set the 'lens to focal plane' as ZERO point, the least length required to utilize this lens, and an 'infinity stop' is engraved on the plate, for quickly and precisely set lens on this position.

When focus objects in distance less than infinity, rail moves and bellows extends to increase L-F distance to fulfill the requirement, as object get closer, extended distance increase more. that is, if object at about 10 meters away, maybe the L-F needs only 3mm increment, but when object at 2 meters away, increment increase to 18mm.
That explained why cam curve designed to be a parabolic curve, and if you set the wrong section, all adjustments are in vain.

Left on image shows the correct curve section on cam, infinity stop is aligned with the engraved line on cam, the ZERO point, and the curve section is match with the lens focus characteristic curve. But if the ZERO point is not aligned with the mark, then curve section must be shift, like what shows on right of image. Thus before you do any calibration, you should check if the infinity stop aligned with mark line or not.
Basic concept is clear, so we conclude the steps of calibration as following..

Zeroing: set the lens to infinity, and make sure the mirror arm is attached with cam, on the mark line.
Align overlay image at infinity object.
Align overlay image at closer object.

That are all steps we will follow, then here comes the detail...

Settings

	1. Byron camera with prime lens, ground glass panel, magnifying loupe, tripod.
	2. Screw drivers, one tiny flat head, one normal philips head.
	3. A sunny day and clear view
	4. Choose a contrasty object as infinity target, like a high-voltage tower, about 2 km away from my house. What I pick is a Big number calender panel. Hang it on wall, at the same height of the tripod, parallel with camera.

Step 1. RF housing removal

	Byron uses two screws to hold the RF housing, one is beneath the cold shoe, you need to remove tiny screw on top, and peel apart the plastic sheet to reveal the screw. Another one is in the side plate of film chamber, this screw need a long neck driver, or you can temporary take off the sliding tooth set for easier un-screwing.
	Once two screws are removed, carefully take the housing off, and put it aside.
	Now the RF mechanical parts are revealed, what we will adjust later are three parts, as explained at beginning, they are fixed screw, mirror, and lens cam (from left to right).

Step 2. Zeroing

Now we are going to calibrate infinity end, this is no extension for rail, so called zeroing.Mount Byron onto the tripod, face the infinity object. (high voltage tower)
Mount on your prime lens, here is a Ysarex 4.7/127mm lens as example, if your prime lens is 150mm, mount it on.
Pull the front standard to the correspond infinity stop, engage the groove. Byron engraves lens length for each infinity stop, so it is easy to distinguish.
Set shutter to B, and with a cable release lock, make the lens shutter keep opening, and the aperture to full opening.
Make sure that rail is not extended, distance scale marked on infinity. You can check with loupe on ground glass panel.
Check lens cam, mirror arm should engage cam curve at the engraved line, adjust the cam by loosing locking screw if necessary.
View through the RF eye window, align the tower in the center, observe the overlaying image, do necessary adjustments, till images align with each other.
(In this step, we use two screws on mirror for adjustment)

Step 3. Close distance calibration

After zeroing, turn camera to close distance object (calender), adjust camera distance to object about 4 feet, about the nearest distance the lens can focus.
with loupe and ground glass panel, turn the focus knob to focus the object, after focus is set, DO NOT TOUCH THE KNOB ANYMORE! Because next step you are calibrating the overlay image based on this focus, any knob turning will need re-focus.
View through the RF eye window, align the object in center, observe the overlaying image, do necessary adjustments, till images align with each other.
(In this step, we use fixed screw for adjustment)

Step 4. Re-check, further adjustment

Both infinity and close ends are calibrated, we re-check the result by turning back to face the infinity, to see if images in eye window keep align or not.
If overlay images keep align, then the calibration is done, and you can put back the RF housing.
If overlay images are not aligned with each other, then it may caused by wrong cam curve section. By loose the cam locking screw and turn the cam a bit, to make overlay images align again.
Repeat step 1~3, make necessary adjustments, till overlay images keep align on both end.
These are steps for calibration, I hope this answer some questions about the RF adjustments.
And for Byron whose prime lens is set to 150mm, the original 127mm lens cam is replaced by custom made 150mm lens cam, they look alike, but curve is little bit different. (left: 150mm cam, right: 127mm cam)

Sometimes new cam needs a little bit of filing to match the lens, because each lens got its own character! That belongs to advanced fine tuning...

New cam

2010-04-27T22:39:00.002+08:00

Finally, new cam for Goerz Dagor 111mm lens is ready, adjust the RF tomorrow, then it can fly to NY.

Play with mirror is fun!

2010-04-26T14:43:00.002+08:00

This set is going to France, with a modified Fuji PA-145 holder.

Imperial/ Metric system

2010-04-21T10:34:00.002+08:00

New distance scale compared with original ones, font size is bigger for reading, and in Imperial system as well as Metric system upon client's request.

Revised in 4 versions, and re-arranged colors, font size and locations, distance scales are re-designed in whole new looks. Every version of output is different from what I saw on monitor, that took me many hours to adapt with, time wasted between output lab and my studio.

Left two are from original, notice that one in meters, very very few, most 110B I encountered are in feet.
Right four are covered by new distance scales, different scales for different prime lenses, they are more clear reading, and the scale is unified to focal plane, no more confused "Feet to lens".

So do the un-coupled lenses, accompanied by distance scales engraved red line mark, and infinity stop engraves, Byron is capable of with 3 interchanging lenses.

Tele Arton Project un-coupled

2010-04-18T22:55:00.002+08:00

Have been tried 5 cam for this lens, but the result was not good, I think that 110B range finder has its limit, for such a long focal length, we need a laser diode range finder for it!!

And the rail movement on 110B, only allow the lens focus from infinity to about 4meter, no reason to keep the project, leave the lens to GG panel.

A notification to PA-45 holder users...

2010-04-18T12:37:00.003+08:00

Last time German Bear wrote me complaining about using the PA-45 holder, here is what he wrote:

"Problem: Polaroid back welded with Byron. If I use a Polaroid holder, it's easy to connect with the Byron, but how to get off? Once I did, after I want to change to Grafmatic but Polaroid holder didn't move a millimeter from the Byron. He was like welded, I pull and pull and at the end only with force I could get off.
Solution: ?? Why it's so hard to get off? Can you do something?"

What he refers is a Fuji PA-45 instant film holder.

He sent me the holder, and I mount it to my Byron, that is really tight, like he said, welded with camera back, no way to shake or move. that is good for mounting, then I unmounted it, IT WELD! Just like Byron is equipped with a PA-45 back permanently!

That is really weired, so I forced to take it off, at the moment I fully understood what Bear were feeing, standing on the street, with friends who are watching.....and that stupid Byron just grab the holder won't let go! Bad dog! Bad dog! Let go!!

Took a break and had a cup of tea, I remounted the holder, this time, with my own PA-45 holder.

Funny thing is, my holder is easily unmounted, and even it allow little space when mounted, totally different with the one from Bear.

I compared with two holders carefully, be honest, found nothing different, they should be all the same, but why two holders acts so much diverse?

Then I checked the edges, found out that when mounting, one holder is very much bump at the side of back, another one won't. The one that bumps will cause the holder tightly mount, and there is no space for it to unmount.

Could that be versions of PA-45 holder? a little different on edge exists between versions.

Since Bear's holder needs a little space for unmount, then let it be some space! I filed both edges, make a small ditch, that keeps little spaces between holder and back.

Now Bear's holder is mount/unmount as easy as mine, that should solve the problems.

To all my clients who are planning to use Fuji PA-45/Polaroid 550 instant film holder, if your holder "welded" on the back, please do as what I did, filed both side with a small ditch.

a little more improvement

2010-04-16T17:24:00.006+08:00

Exchanged opinions with German bear last night, he would like to have Ysarex 4.7/127mm lens a lens shade, but since the lens does not have filter threads, he asked me if I know any shade available for it.

I remember reading a post, a Chinese lives in Canada ever glued a step-up ring on lens, then he can use filters/shade in front of Ysarex.

I think this is not bad idea, a little more improvement makes Byron better, I can do this as basic conversion, so I went to find the ring this afternoon.

49-52 step-up ring is almost perfect fit for the lens, but the inner diameter of ring is 46.0mm, and the outer diameter of the lens is 46.5mm, that I need to visit my mechanist to do some work.

Lathe the inner diameter into 46.5, step-up ring is tightly fit on the lens. Inner circle is shinny silver due to the lathe work.

And then I squeezed to fit the ring, no any glue needed, it is just so tight, you will need to use a philip screwdriver to take it off.

It looks neat and pretty, with this ring we can install any 52mm filter on, and of course a 52mm lens shade. With ring on the lens, it safely stay in the camera body when fold.

To all my clients who are waiting for their Byron home, I am very sorry for delaying this conversion batch, for some caused by my finger injury, and some by my mechanist who was busy on other company's case. To make up the drag, I will install this step-up ring on Ysarex 4.7/127 to each Byron, unless you write to me, say "no!"

Another improvement is to unify distance scales.

Byron is a conversion turning a fixed lens camera into an interchangeable lens system, besides one prime lens is range coupled with range finder, other lenses planning to use must have their distance scale for un-coupled focus.

But Polaroid designed distance scale in a merely weired way, distance scale original on 110B is not engraved in between object and focal plane, which is a common way to do, instead, they measured distance between objects and lens. Two system differ on the length of camera body, that is about 8inches.

For object locates far away, say 20 feet, 8 inches makes no difference for both two scale, but if object is near, maybe 5feet away, then 8 inches means a big focus error.

I was reminded by Raymond, a Byron client, he wrote me one day said that the distance scale is not right, I followed what told and found out the same situation. Then I finally found that all lenses I measured and set are based on focal plane, but distance scale on 110B is based on lens tip, that caused errors.

And original distance scale misguided people, makes us thought that 127mm lens can focus as near as 3 feet, but to focal plane, actually 3.5 feet.

So I redesigned the scale, remeasured and remarked it, image on top is what original distance scale shows and what it measured, below is what new scale shows and it measured.

New scale has bigger numeric numbers, to help people like me, in the middle age, weak eye sighted. And in colors for more clearly display.

Not only scale in feet, also there is version in meters, reminded by a French client, some people get used to use metric system.

Again, please let me know if you prefer to use metric system, or I will use imperial system.

class April 10 is graduated

2010-04-15T01:12:00.002+08:00

Half of them are way to Europe, half to USA, first thing next week...

Dragged by finger wounded, by this batch brings me a lot of inspirations.

Quality is the most important thing...

2010-04-13T02:22:00.002+08:00

I like to do things in quality.
There always people writes me about the conversion cost, that brings me an idea, why not I sell DIY kit to buyers, and then let them do all the conversion, saves my time, and their money!

But recently when I did my conversion batch, the idea vanished.
The reason, conversion steps need experiences, and skills accumulated by try and errors.
If DIY kit did not provide enough parts for new hands to do things right, what then? buy another spare parts? bear the not-so-good quality for the rest of camera life?
For example, paste the velvet on the back.

You can see that there are total 12 screw holes around frame opening, that is for fixing the bellows, we will paste three stripe of velvet, to cover the holes, and to as light trap. (fixing the bellows needs another skill)

As you can see that two of them have been pasted, the last one is going to paste on.

Finished.
But I say it is unqualified on Byron.
I will re-paste the middle velvet, as you can see there is one tiny gap at under side. To a new hand, pasting velvet is not easy at all. I reckon myself a handy man, but I practice this paste step for about 40 times, then I eventually know how to do it right, so how many should I prepare in DIY kit?
Or will you tolerate imperfection, try to ignore it every time you load/unload the film holder, since it did not affect the operation?
But what if some parts do affect the quality of operation, and you got only one chance to make it right? what about bellows?

What about the RF housing? It took me about 13 main steps to modify.

Such as shown here, from left to right are housing for 110A, 110B, and modified 110B for Byron, I added a eyecap attachment at the eye window,

And at the right lower part of housing, some putty is needed to fill, an opening left for clamps..., a lot of sanding and then putting again.....

Then at the end of housing, a dented corner, for accommodating PA-45 holder, then thanks to Walter, I add a bubble level hole.
All these finished, two to three layers of spray paint is needed, before that, maybe a base paint is needed, and even finer sanding......
Do these job suitable for DIY? maybe yes for skillful hand, but for new hands....
I am afraid that the quality of Byron is no way to maintain if DIY kit released......
And, to all my dearest clients, if you are waiting for your lovely Byron home, please forgive me if there is a little schedule behind, that always be some steps I feel not good enough, and take days re-made or re-adjust, I can't let them out in such an unqualified condition, maybe you are not aware, but I am.

Some useful information for camera DIY

2010-04-06T20:37:00.002+08:00

DIY Custom Camera Bellows Kit
This is cool!
Though not my way of bellows making, but it is good for starter.

Camera Bellows Outer Cover Fabric
It is too thick to me, but should be very good material for size larger than 4x5.....
(11/04 add) there is going to provide a much thinner material, when Sorin solved the lightproof problem and cost problem. In my opinion, as long as you let buyers aware that 3 layers of bellows construction is 100% lightproof is enough, no need for additional treatments, that will increase thickness.

Fine Grain DIY Ground Glass Kit
and this one shows you how to grind your own ground glass, amazing!

Shit day!

2010-03-19T20:42:00.003+08:00

I just been cut by a mini motor grinder, on my left hand index finger, really shit day!
now it hurts very much, but at least my finger did not leave me....

(28/03 add)

I did not mentioned that after my left hand been cut, the next day my right hand finger being cut by the same tool! how stupid I am! this time my wife did not comfort me, rather she shout at me, something like axxhole or things like that.
We Chinese had a saying :" bad luck never come alone", well, I do agree with that.
During these days all I can do is sitting before notebook, typing with two un-wounded fingers and grabing the mouse to hang around, waiting for wound be better.

That makes things worse, you know, sometimes when you are boring, you just can not stop wanting to buy something, to comforting yourself. I bought a Panasonic G1 camera body and a leica M to M43 adapter, now I got a full manual digital camera system! G1 body price drop so quick, it cost merely about the price of an adapter---US$220!

I always think that investing on digital camera is a totally money lose, since it becomes a trash within one or two years, and no one will take it even you give it away for free! So I do my best avoiding invest on digital things, best someone throw me an ex-expensive toy to me, treat me as a digital trash processor....

But I am happy with this body, even worth if you only use its spot metering function, as a spot meter.

And for my Leica M lenses, I found out that my 90mm lens is back to life again, thanks to this camera body, for I rarely use 90mm lens on my M6, in the reason of focus difficulty. But G1 makes it as a 180mm lens and is in SLR structure, focusing is a pleasure on it, that makes me feel an big extra bonus!

Today I am back to my worktable, this batch conversion is little schedule behind, sorry guys, I will do my best to catch up, at least not dragging too long...

Emily fans are many!

2010-03-13T18:19:00.002+08:00

I am working on front plate design, for fixing the ininity position, and for focus adjustments. Many mails came, give me valuable suggestions, I would like to thank all of your concern, that makes me a little bit nervous, I will push myself, and my mechanist to do the job well, to keep fans happy!!

(16/03 added)

Just brought back the top plate for Emily, I did some modification---drilled hole for bubble level. Contributed idea by Walter, drilled hole on Byron top housing, I found that Emily should have one too.

bubble level is rather thick, but thanks to the plate, it is implanted quite well

Ok, what else we need?
Kids has just re-watched Harry Potter movies, said this camera should be named "Mad Eye Moody".
Worth to think about it.

And this Xenotar just taken off from barrel last night, glass is not perfect, some dust, but overall is good, not US$39K, only 0.3k!
And I don't know how to deal with this barrel tube, "photo-sonics inc" is what engraved, anyone provides me some info on this company? thank you.

Is there anyone willing to sell me a #2 shutter?

New top plat for Emily

2010-03-09T09:20:00.002+08:00

Besides tedious works on converting cameras, I took time mainly on developing Emily, WA 4x5 shooter, based on J66 body, almost the same as 110/B, except no Range finder on top, and no front door for rail, so it is a good candidate for wide angle.
All the same back system to Byron, Emily needs new bellows, new front lens plate, and a new top plate. The top plates just arrived, I installed it with two cold shoes, one for view finder, one for a tiny range finder, if uses want to.

This is the position for about 47mm lens. Avoiding pig snout and helical focus ring which are popular seen on wide angle camera, I want to replace them by bellows and level, bellows is easy to me, but the level, that puzzeled me.

If I can successfully develop a mechanism, which can fix the lens on infinity position, and move the lens in 15mm range by adjusting level, then Emily will be a great WA camera for lenses wider than 90mm!

Then maybe I should sell the DIY kit, to convert your own J66 into WA camera, you can choose the color of cover you want, and I can get rid of those tedious works!!!

Byron will add bubble

2010-03-01T23:26:00.002+08:00

Went to my mechanist today, with a cracked RF housing and a bubble, asked him to drill a 20mm dia. hole, he did, and we inserted the bubble, looked fine, but a little too near the edge, should move the hole backward little bit.
So from now on, unless client indicates he/she doesn't want the bubble, I will install one for each Byron, thanks to Walter's wonderful idea!

US$39,000 for Xenotar 2.8/150, is that real?

2010-02-26T12:06:00.001+08:00

Just sold on xBay, can you believe that? I think it must be made in gold!
Ah, today I learned a new word "fishy"

FISHY FISHY, Fishy very much!

270 Tele Arton Project

2010-02-26T10:10:00.002+08:00

Received a beautiful 5.5/270mm Tele Arton lens, from USA, bought by German Bear, he wants his second Byron on this lens. Well, It is funny to see such a tele lens on Byron, should not need too much modification for it, on Schneider website the data says this lens got "Flange Focal Distance 152mm", almost same distance as 150mm lenses, so there should be no need for a special version Byron for it.But the focus cam is troublesome! and I think this is not feasible for hand held shooting, Bear loves to shoot steam locomotive. He can wait the train goes by, standing in snow for 3 hour, crazy bear!

152mm

Fuji Quickload holder and Bubble level

2010-02-25T10:49:00.002+08:00

This is contributed by NY Walter Garcia, a Byron owner, who is so creative, modified Fuji Quickload film holder for Byron and added a bubble level on camera body, here is what he wrote to me about Fuji Quickload:

'Daniel,
Attached are photos of my modification for Fuji Quick Load holder. After cutting the two small notches the fit is good. I will expose some film with this in the next few days If weather is good. It is not difficult to do but it must be done carefully and slowly. I do not have small measuring device to see exact measurement in mm. I think you can do this if you get one of these holders. They are easy to find and not so expensive. To disassemble you must remove 6 small screws circled in image #01.

Then carefully take apart two half.

Be careful with roller it has two small springs that like to jump out. Also pressure plate likes to fall out. The other images show where cut must be made to fit with Byron locks. Let me know what you think.'

Regards,
Walter

Well, I think it is just marvelous! To a traveler with Byron, LF and light weighted, slim and easy to carry is the most concerned, and Fuji Quickload is a very good idea for people on the road, I always been asked about if Byron takes Fuji Quickload or Kodak Readyload or not, but I never got a chance to try it.
Is there a Ready Load holder and willing to let me try? It seems easy to modify on Quickload, should be not hard on others.

(01/03 add)

Walter kindly sent me images of Quickload on the back of Byron, to completely demonstrate how it looks when in use, thanks, man!

Looks like it is Angulon 6.8/90mm lens at work!!! That's the reason for lens interchangeable system!!

Then the other creative idea from Walter, a bubble level!

'Daniel,
Here is something I added to Byron. Small detail but could be useful for fast leveling on tripod. I had saved this from broken plastic tripod someone gave me. Let me know what you think about this.
Best,
Walter'

After reading the mail, I hurried to the shop nearby to find the bubble, I want one too!
Asked if I can post his mail to my blog, here is what he replied.

'You are welcome to use any of the images and information for the blog. Since there are not many Byron yet, all owners are like small family and welcome to share any ideas.'

Indeed, sharing ideas makes the community grow and keep in health!

Let's share our ideas!!

Year of the Tiger, Year of Emily

2010-02-22T13:47:00.002+08:00

Vacation is over, 9 days of release, finally.
I really don't wanna back to normal life, hot spring spa, fresh sea food, hot pot, beef noodles, sushi, walks under the tree alley of the cherry blossoms, and all over the ground also...........
Well, but there are lots of works to do!

First of this year, Xenotar version Byron had to go by the end of March! Jeff had been waited too long, special sized bellows needs new blue print, lens board mechanism needs new parts......

Then the sister of Byron, Emily, project for converting J66 into a 4x5 snapper for wide angle lens. New plates arrived and waited for drills, should be available at the end of June.

So before that, new batch of conversion will start at the end of this month, four on line, and another three is on the way.

Oh, right, be reminded, I should upgrade my " Something you should know about Byron" into version 2.0

And there will be v1.0 about "Emily" too.

Happy New Year of Tiger!

To Better Fit Regular Double Dark Slide Film Holders on Byron Back System

2010-02-13T13:46:00.002+08:00

Rules are made to be violated. I am happy to said that, since I break another rule I set before, it means the limits are less, options are wider.
Byron has its own back system, differs from International Standard Back System or Graflok Back System, because I want it to keep simple and slim as possible.
Since it did not follow industrial standard, there are some limits for those standard film holder to be mounted on.
I received feedback from my dear client Raymond, who are not satisfied when using regular double dark slide film holders: "The tabs holding the film holder do not close completely when a film holder is inserted. The tension is insufficient to keep the film holder snuggly against the camera and I am concerned that there will be a light leak. Is this how it is supposed to work? It seems you are trying to make the tabs work with all types of backs but have compromised the operation when used with a regular film holder. I think it should be the other way around - it should work perfectly with the film holder and compromises should be made when using the other backs."
What my main purpose on developing Byron camera is for hand-held, street snap 4x5 rangecoupled, so those holders who can carry as many films as possible are prior listed, Grafmatic 6 films, 120 roll films, instant film packs, to name a few, and they are all in Graflok standard, thus Byron Back System was guided for Graflok standard. Two clamps on both up and beneath side hold Graflok film holders very well, you can see operations on my YouTube video.

Trying to design a system perfectly fit both for Graflok and Graflex systems, but failed, so I had to compromise the regular double dark slide film holders, what clamps hold are only the tiny ditches on side of the holders, not very securely held. In the picture below you can see that clamps do not grip the holder by "bite in" the holder, but just hold the side by the tension.

For this I set the limits on "Something you should know about Byron", regular double dark slide holders, only allow those holders who has ditches on side, like brand Fidelity series, or Lisco holders; and those holders who has no ditches on side are off the list, like TOYO holders.

Though clamps do not "bite in" the holder, I am not so worry, since when hand-held, your left hand holds the camera, thumb naturally press the back , providing good support of the holder, to keep it from falling.

But how about when not hand-holding, on tripod, there is no hand to press the back, will it be secure to hold? That must be concerned by many clients who are experienced LF camera users, but seldom hand-held snaps on 4x5, like what Raymond said.

For this, three options to clients to choose.

1. Keep It that Way.

If you use Fedelity or Lisco holders, with faint ditches on side, and would like to hand-held snaps, you don't need to do any change, just use the holders. When you mount the holders, your left hand thumb will provide enough press to keep the holder, and the dark slide you insert into the blocking plate (see pic, above), provides another security to keep it.

2. Make Ditches for Bite-In

If you are good at machine, and happen have tools, you can make ditches on side of the holders, let clamps grip the holders by "Bite-In", it is the best solution I can get now, but you need tools to do it. The ditch is 1.5mm wide, 20mm long, and 1.5mm in depth.

Here I use TOYO holders, whose sides are without ditches, but with these ditches I made, they are feasible for Byron now, holders is securely hold.
(23/02 add)
People asked about the precised position of the ditches, so here it is

Help by a lathe machine and a 1.5mm drill, make 2 ditches each side. The most important dimesion is 6.8mm, center of the ditch, just for clamp to grip.

3. The Velcro Way

I know that ditches way is difficult for average people, so there is an easy way, what we want to prepare are velcro tape, a pair of scissor, and file.

File both side of holder, to make room for velcro tape, you can compare original holder and the one who has been filed.

Then cut the proper size of velcro tape (hook side), paste it on both sides of holder, now we provide very good "Bite-In" zone for clamps!

For comparing the "Bite-In", we list three ways in a row, you can choose an option you like. Now, the DD slide holders are not limited anymore, any holder allowed on Byron!!

I moved my house

2010-02-03T19:04:00.000+08:00

Sorry for no new update these days, I just moved to a new place, I can own a big room for Byron works.
And for those who concerned, 30 new 150mm cams just arrived, waiting for test, I decided not to grind the 127mm cam into a 150 one, feeling that will be risky on precision.

My internet will be connected tomorrow, if telephone company do keep the promise.

Till then, see ya!

Lenses curves

2010-01-23T08:43:00.002+08:00

Inspired by distance scale issue, I measured all lenses in hand, combine same focal length lenses into one, and plotted the curves representing them.

Most lenses marked as same focal length have same characteristic curve, except 120mm lenses I have.
One is Schneider Angulon 6.8/120mm, and another one is a vintage Tessar 4.5/12cm lens from Cocarette folder. Their characteristic curves are totally different, funny thing isn't it? That means two 120mm lenses need different distance scale.

Distance Scale is not so correct.....

2010-01-19T20:09:00.002+08:00

I received feedback from Raymond who told me that "the focus scale, the ground glass and the rangefinder did not agree on the focus distance." That brings me curiosity how precise the RF on 110B? I never doubt about the distance scale that camera shows me, until this time.
So I managed to measure the REAL distance scale that read out from ground glass panel. After some cameras were measured, a curve plotted to represent the relationship of focus distance and the rail movement.
Black curve represents the measure I made from ground glass, the blue curve is what distance scale on camera marked.

The curve tells me some facts that I should let all of the polaroid 110A/B owners to know, that is "the distance scale on camera is IN-CORRECT"!!
How surprise! I did trust the credits of Polaroid, their reputations of the quality control on productions......., but I should check before that!!
The curve tells me that 127mm lens actually can not focus as close as 3 feet, like the distance scale shows, 3.6ft (110cm) is the nearest distance that camera can focus.
And the curve tells me more, that the distance scale is somewhat correct from infinity to about 5 feet, and then incorrect increase when focus closer.

BEWARE!!!

I should re-mark the distance scale on Byron.

(afternoon the same day Added...)

I received a mail, James from US told me that 'Actually Polaroid did make the distance scale inaccurate on purpose. What they did was based on ordinary people who are not aware 'focal plane', estimating distance between subject and the front end of lens, not knowing that real focus is on 'focal plane', about 20cm behind the lens, thus Polaroid marked the scale a little bit shorter, to compensate the common errors. When subject is far out of 5feet, that 20cm error won't bother anything, but if subject is very close, say 4feet (120cm), that 20cm deliberated shortage then become obvious! That is exactly what my curve shows me!!

And Mr.James pointed out that '110B camera was made in a closed system, that is, fixed lens, so as long as the range finder is coupled with the lens, no matter how the distance scale marked, it won't bring errors, but Byron now makes its range finder an open system, not only coupled with one lens only, and it also becomes reference for other lenses, for un-coupled setting, that makes distance scale in-correct.'

Thanks James, your explanation released me, bring back my faith to Polaroid!

German Bear sent me a letter.....

2010-01-19T08:15:00.002+08:00

----I could not catch up his schedule, delivered Byron to him before his new year trip, so I lend my own Byron with 127mm and 90mm lenses to him, asking him post some photos (a silly bear holding the camera, smiling...) during his two weeks vacation. And this is the first letter he sent to me this morning.----Daniel

Hi Byron worker,
at home in Odessa with jet-lag, that's why just some proof pics of working Byron at -30 degrees Celsius! I was fixing lens with some strips of Gaffa tape on the plate, otherwise was not handle changing the exposure time on the small wheel. People from Japan, USA, Germany, GB, China locals was looking at Byron...:-)
Byron just goes out today on the way back to you, thanks a lot!!!
More next days, sleepy Sebastian needs resting...

(I saw your Fuji 6x9 on you neck.......)

(Locomotive fans, frozen lollipop....)

I envy my Byron, it will travel all over the world!

New version of Front Standard for big eyes is under development

2010-01-16T14:42:00.002+08:00

In the Project I'm possible, I saw the possibility to expand the lenses selection range even wider.
When I tried to solve the problem on inf. stop of 150mm lens, a new protruding lens board was developed, and that makes lenses who use #1 shutter becomes feasible on Byron, though some lenses need in-directly mounting procedure, makes them inconvenient to operate.
Now with this 8mm Enforced plate, I can drill hole as big as 60mm in diameter, that means all those lenses who was inconvenient to use on protruding lens board, become no problem at all, most of them could be directly mounted, no matter their #1 or #2 shutter size!!
(Thanks to Jeff providing the link of Compur shutter spec, I found out that Xenotar 2.8/150 is actually on a #2 shutter!, not #3)

That is really crazy! I never thought of such big shutter size on Byron before!

For those people who wants Byron light weight, tiny, easy to fold up and carry, please stick on the original lens board system I developed.

For those people who doesn't care about weight, carry, but love to use those "Big Eyes", "Big Rear", "Big Shutter", please wait for my new version of lens board system.

And Jeff, that is you!

Nearest distance Xenotar 150 can get

2010-01-14T08:28:00.002+08:00

Just measured, almost stretch the temporary bellows in totally flat, I managed to pull the lens to rail's limit, the nearest distance that Xenotar 2.8/150mm focus is about 107cm, from focal plan to subject, that is about 3.5 feet.

Jeff, see that?

Consider the thickness that enforced plate is 8mm, what if I add it to 10mm? Possibly it get close to 100cm?

Anyway, a bright sunny day again! I will wait my younger son off from school and then make an instant shoot, first model for Xenotar-Byron!!

So keep watching!!

Just curious to ask, is there any other crazy lens that uses #3 shutter, focal length under 150mm?

Young model is hard to deal with, especially if he is you son! Bribe with 3 chocolate bars to make him cooperated.

Naughty boy!

Byron + Xenotar 2.8/150, f/2.8 1/200sec, FP-100C 4x5

Same image as above, partial, focus at the eyes.

Byron + Xenotar 2.8/150, f/2.8 1/200sec, FP-100C 4x5

Same image as above, partial, focus at the eyes.

All focus as close as possible (3.5ft), I found that DOF is really shallow, wasted about 4 instant films to get these two rather satisfied results.
150mm, f2.8, focus at 3.5ft, DOF got only 0.08 ft (2.4cm!), means when I focus at the eyes, ears are already out of focus!
and I had not made the lens coupled with range finder yet, I made photos this afternoon by gg panel, ruler, and ordered my kid to hold still, not even breath!

Project I'm possible--Xentoar Version

2010-01-07T22:42:00.003+08:00

I just said that "don't even think about it!!" at 150mm lens test, about Xenotar 2.8. Then Jeff that New Yoker really good at persuasion, whispered: "If you made it, you will be the first and the only one who brings Xenotar to snaps, think about it!"
................
That really tempts.
Well, think it twice, its nearly impossible.
nearly.

I heard they say that fashion industry will love this kind of combination, a fast lens capture models' nature expression, and range finder helps shooter graping the timing.
That is what I heard from Lambis, my Sweden pal. Where are you now? seems you disappeared, you booked a Byron, remember?
Now, lets compare the lens size, a giant fits into the place for dwarf. and estimated about 700g in weight.

What I did first, is to find out if the front standard available for this giant or not, or should we make a brand new for it?
Asked my mechanist to expand the hole as big as possible, finally I got this, barely enough for rear element. It is hard to explain, the hole is much bigger than the shutter thread, but not for whole rear to pass. I did this for the reason to let the lens extruding out of the standard, to avoid the collision of the struts.

HEY! You won't think this Xenotar-version-Byron still got the ability for lens interchange? It will be dedicated for this lens only. But you can take it off when folding camera.

Now there are 3 main problems (and some minors) needs to be solved

1. front standard is made of a 2mm steel plate, strong enough for Ysarex, but not for this dino.
luckily we almost has solved it, so it is strong enough to hold the lens, but the plate is still too thin visually.

2. lens need to be extruded out, to avoid collision with struts.

I've ordered a special front plate, in 8mm thickness, to enforced the original 2mm plate, also providing lens extruding and flange fixing.

Enforced plate is coming, needs some further process, but it looks great, definitely strong enough for that BIG EYE! Four holes at corner for plate and standard, three by the lens hole, that is for flange.

Seems like that I really make it!

NY Jeff, happy now?
Sweden Lambis, where is your Xenotar?
(13/01/10 ADD)

It's a sunny day, rarely happen in Taiwan's winter, always raining.
Lens mounted onto Byron, bellows was tailored by normal silk one, cut a few front folds for bigger hole, for temporary test, thus shorten it's length that I can not extend the lens to the limit, but no problem for infinity.

Surprised that it actually feel not bad when holding in hand, I thought it would be very heavy, but it is not, thats good.

Focusing in 2.8 aperture is very much easy and comfortable, image is bright and clear, edge to edge, with my gg panel, even no hood needed.

3. How to mount/unmount the lens?
Right now, screw/unscrew the front/rear element is the only way.
4. Bellows needs to be redesigned, for bigger rear element.

Bellows hold until next month, I need to do Jan batch of conversion works.

(to be continued)

Multi Infinity Stops Engraving

2010-01-02T21:35:00.002+08:00

Each Byron is converted by clients' requests, especially for the lenses they picked. Different combinations of brands and types of lens, shutters, it definitely needs each lens' infinity stop be measured specifically.
After individual measurement for each lens, then the i.stop engraving work needs help by my mechanist.
First, a special T type lathe knife was ordered.

The knife will engrave the plate a 1 mm width ditch, to keep and hold the front standard on location. Measurements are precisely down to 0.01mm, and with a CNC lathe machine, that will do the job very well.
Secondary, my mechanist made a fixture tooling, to hold the plate in fixed position.

Fixture tool firmly holds the plate in vertical position, and knife lathes tiny ditch according to the measurements.

Then the plate is engraved the digits of focal length by the side of ditch, for identification. I need some more practice of engraving......

For my own reason, to ensure pairing the plate with matched camera body, I engraved each owner's name on the back of the plate.

Then the installation, and rechecked the focus. Noticed that 90mm lens distance scale at the right side? that is for un-coupled focus.

Lens mount study---150mm lenses

2010-01-01T22:23:00.003+08:00

Each lens on Byron needs to be measured for its infinity stop, that is why I asked my clients to ship their lenses planning to use on Byron to me.
Byron is handmade converted, and the lenses are in different shutters, these variations bring great differences within lenses in same focal length.
Recently I measured 12 Byrons for their 4.7/127 Ysarex, to engrave their infinity stops. I found out that i.stop location changes within 4mm range, specific camera should paired with specific lens, no lens/camera switches allowed.
And on 150mm lens, I got 7 lenses this time, all in different type, although they are marked 150mm, but by their i.stop location, I'm sure some lenses are far less than 150mm.

Another BIG brother is a 2.8/150 Xenotar, I put a 127 Ysarex with it as comparison, you can see its size!! In #3 shutter! Jesus Christ!

We will discuss each lens one by one, for future references.

Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150 in #0 shutter

This lens got the shortest i.stop distance among other 150 lens, I doubt it is far less than 150mm, but found no data to prove it.
It doesn't need extruding lens board, normal board is good enough, and best of all, this lens can stay in camera when fold up, its tiny size and light-weight feature is great for travel and pack-carry, all these make this lens highly recommended for Byron.

Voigtlander Heliar 4.5/15cm in #1 shutter

This vintage lens is rather fast--4.5, and needs a extruding lens board, for its exceeding i.stop, and for its #1 shutter.

Fujinon.W 5.6/150 in #0 shutter--older version

Fuji 150 lens on normal lens board, can be directly mounted on, that is, no need to unscrew the rare element first. Compared with newer version, this lens is rather small in size, and quite easily mount/unmount.

CM Fujinon.W 5.6/150 in #0 shutter--New Version

I don't understand why Fuji made this version in such a big size, much bigger then previous version, but the lens are all in same size, a lot of space is wasted on its "bowl", front and rare, brings troubles when mounting on Byron.

two versions compared in size.

Infinity stop moves further a little bit, compared with old version, so it needs an extruding lens board. And the rare element is bigger than 48mm in diameter, must be taken off when mounting, then re-screw it on, that makes this lens the least choice for Byron, take my word, choose that old version.

Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150 in #0 shutter

I was hoping to mount this lens directly, according its rear size in 47mm dia. smaller than Byron front standard lens hole 48mm, but because of extruding lens board, it only allow for in-directly mounting, very disappointed.
So there are two options:

1. installed with extruding lens board, and in-directly mount the lens.

2. installed with normal lens board, directly mount the lens, but rail extends about 2mm.

I will take option 2, for 2mm of rail movement loss cause focus range from 5 feet to about 5.3 feet, and I think I seldom to use a 150 in such close distance.
Pity, this is my favorite lens, but I can't make it perfect fit on Byron.

Fujinar 6/3/15cm vintage lens in #0 shutter

This tiny lens takes extruding lens board for its 3mm exceeding i.stop, other than that, no problem on mounting/un-mounting, very light-weight, a great lens for travel and trekking, but front element is little bit high, preventing it staying in camera when fold up.
Seikosha-Rapid shutter got a funny long release arm, so it can be released by Byron's sliding release, another weird plus.

Rodenstock APO Ronar 9/150 in #0 shutter

This lens takes extruding lens board, it is tiny, light-weight, easy to mount/un-mount, and very sharp. Though it is not a fast lens, but you can pick it in very reasonable price, and thinking of we always take pictures in rather slower aperture, like f/11or f/16, it is actually a good candidate for rangefolders.
(to be continued.....)

150mm lenses Recommendation List to fit Byron:

Best!
tiny, light weight and stay in fold up
1. Rodenstock Geronar 6.3/150mm

Better.

directly mount, take off when fold up

1. Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (old version)
2. Fujinar 6.3/15cm
3. Voigtlander 4.5/15cm (in #1 shutter)
4. Rodenstock APO Ronar 9/150

Better NOT!!

indirectly mount, take off when fold up

1. Fujinon.W 5.6/150 (new version)
2. Schneider APO Symmar 5.6/150

Don't Even Think About It!!

1. Xenotar 2.8/150 in #3 shutter

Lens board study--#1 shutter available for Byron now!

2010-01-01T20:55:00.002+08:00

110B camera was designed for 127mm lens, it's flat bed has 20mm of rail moving range, enough for 127 lens to focus from infinity to 3 feet.

Now we are planning to use 150mm lens on it, 20mm range just makes150 lens focusing from infinity to 5 feet, I tried to extend the moving range flat bed, but fail, because the arm connecting the lens cam is not able to extend any longer.

That makes 20mm rail very precious, we should utilize all the range on focusing purpose.

When lens focuses at infinity, it gets shortest distance from lens to focal plane, and then distance added when focusing near objects. So we need at least locate the i.stop position for 150mm lens on flat bed, then utilize the rail movement for object within range.

But the bed is so long to accommodate all 150mm lenses' i.stop, some 150 need little more extension for infinity stop. Previous post has discussed about this situation before. (We will discuss about variety of 150mm lenses later).

Images below shows some i.stop for 150 needs no extension, but some need about 4mm of extension to achieve the shortest distance.

4mm of rail movement for i.stop, means that focus range will be shrinked from 5 feet to maybe 6 feet, which is, definitely not tolerated.

The solution? we should try to make 4mm extrudes of the lens when mounted, so to keep the precious full 20mm rail movement on focusing.

So here is the answer, besides normal lens board, there are extruding version.

That complicates the parts we need, but it worth it, because not only it solve the 150mm lens problem, it also allows us to use #1 shutter on Byron.

Extruding ring makes #1 shutter avoiding the collision with struts. Next time I will try my Angulon 6.8/120 on Byron!!

Image below shows Heliar 4.5/15cm lens on Linhof #1 shutter, from Prof. Don, when the lens arrived I measure the shutter, it is OK to mount on normal lens board, but struts on both sides makes operation awkward, but now with this extruding lens board, not only solves the i.stop location problem, also makes this big shutter operates easily and cozy.

Do you see it? Don?

New Year, New Shoe, New press button

2010-01-01T07:01:00.002+08:00

That bothers me, so I face it and solve it.

The cold shoe, was bought from HK, I took it apart and installed it on Byron with a custom base. It looks like this:

Thought that would be a nice solution to convert original shoe into a international standard size, so I order some from HK again, and made the base in small quantity.

But then I realized that these "made in China" products are unstable in size, some are too tight for mounting, some are OK and some too loose, that bothers me, a lot!

Rather than being complained by my clients, I prefer to face it in advance.

So all these cold shoes and bases are abandoned, I ask my mechanist to make a new one for me.

Byron need only one screw to fix, the second hole is designed for Emily, I planed to implant two or three shoe mounts on her, three in a row! You can install a view finder, a range finder, and a level or a flash at the same time!

Borrowing from lens board, luckily I don't have to order new custom size of stop fixer screws,

Now the shoe is made in one piece.

But for those accessories doesn't have a locking screw, this shoe is little loose to them. I asked the price to order a tiny spring plate for shoe, but gave up of the cost.

So to mount an accessory that without locking-screw, and seems loose, you can:

1. insert a little piece of paper in the shoe, then insert the accessory.
2. use Scotch 3M tape, paste a little piece in the shoe.
3. insert a transfer shoe mount first, then insert your view finder

So the only one part I bought from ready-made, is the 3/8 to 1/4 tripod socket.

People tells me that they rarely use 3/8 tripod anymore, no need for an adapter. Well, I am kind of old fashion, alway keep the option.

Oh, by the way, I add a little rubber button for the shutter release, because days before a lady who loves to take pictures operated Byron, and she couldn't find the release, finally she found it, and she said that the release is not handy for a girl with little palm size like her, better if she didn't have to press it so deep.

Storing Chamber

2009-12-29T16:39:00.002+08:00

Just found out that I never post images of storing chamber, so here they are:

Shutter release and lens cloth can be stored in the chamber, door closed tightly, controlled by a tiny screw just under the eye cup (a silver shinny one), can be adjusted if you feel it too tight or loose.

Emily has new covering and bellows

2009-12-21T18:57:00.002+08:00

Emily with a Grafmatic film back, Looks nice and neat. But she needs a new lens board

Emily basic frame is ready

2009-12-11T08:21:00.002+08:00

I decided to named my J66 WA 4x5 rangefolder "Emily".
The basic frame is ready
Accept lens in focal length 90mm and shorter, I hope to mount a 47mm lens to see how it looks like.

She will be a fixed lens WA 4x5, share the same back system with Byron, but need a new designed helical focus system.
Keep working on it. on her.

You know what? Comparing with the single plastic lens that J66 uses as taking lens, its rangefinder made in much better quality, really don't know what was Polaroid thinking when designing J66.

This world is crazy now!

2009-12-05T22:38:00.002+08:00

US$ 400 for a 110B?
can't believe that!

3x4 instant film back (cont.)

2009-12-04T12:00:00.002+08:00

Blocked by left side teeth and blocking plate, I said that 3x4 Polaroid instant film hold could be used on Byron, but had to use 10 films every time, in my last blog.

Well, not true anymore.

That's ridiculous to force user to shoot 10 instant film every time.

So I tried to solve this problem. One guy in other forum asked about the similar question, his camera blocking the dark slide from inserting back, I suggested him to cut out the part that blocks, and then think maybe I can solve my problem in similar way.

But not to cut out something, thus, to replace something.

First, I have to mask the hole exposed by lathing last time I modified film holder. The work is simple, to glue a thin layer of black plastic on it, the result is satisfied, you wouldn't notice it modified already.

Secondary, to solve that dark slide can not insert back problem.
Use the same thin layer of plastic, made a dark slide same as original.

Since the slide is not so stiff, plastic dark slide now can be pulled out or inserted back anytime during the shooting.

Need a little bit of practice, then you can figure out the way to handle this flexible plastic dark slide.

The final problem, lock/unlock the holder cover, that will take me two days, to be continued.

(06/12 Add)
There are two design versions for holder cover lock. One by me, one by my little boy George, he is 7.

After two days tests and designs, I managed to utilize the holes on the cover, to make a rather "high tec" lock.

Replacing the lock handler with a steel rod through the holes, and fixed by e-rings, now the rod extruding a little bit, as two handles.
Then implant a spring steel loop each side, them lock the cover.

Looks nice, and feel good to use, I am proud about it, took me two days.

Then my kid George came asking me what I am doing, I explained to him and operated to show off, he listened and looked at me, in a weired expression :"that is a cover isn't it? just for lock and unlock, right?","yes." I replied.

Then he went away and back within ten seconds, showed me his solution.

A rubber band! I had to admit it, that is the best solution.

And took George 10 seconds.

Covering the film chamber door

2009-11-29T15:35:00.002+08:00

It is nothing to do with the function of the camera, or the quality of the optical performance, but only personal pursuit from good to excellence.

Prototype of the Byron I made, most of the images in my blog taken from it, no one ever criticized about this, a significant sign beneath the covering of the film chamber door.

Original there was a big extruding switch for instant film process, for simplify the outlook, this useless switch was mill flat, and a thin layer of steel plate was pasted to block the hole left, thus the plate leaves its trace when covered by leatherette.

Yes, it is nothing to do with the functions, and no one ever said anything about it, but I myself feel very annoyed by this, like a big pimple on a beautiful girl's face.

Determined to take it off, what my plan is to implant the thin steel plate, leave no trace of it on cover.

Cut off the back door, leaving the part we need, then not only mill the extruding switch flat, we made a little deeper, a square ditch for the plate. Left one need to be cleaned of the glue that left.

With thin layer steel plate and AB glue for metal, the hole is covered.

But there are still some tiny rivet holes and gaps on the surface, so before covering, some places need to be puttyed, and sand to flat.

Well, it is easy to say, but all procedures took lots of time, but that worth it. the result show beautiful smooth surface.

Rejoin it to the camera, you can see that the covering shows its quality, no trace of the plate, keep outlook low profile and simple.

Keep improving it!

So much investment in the place you won't notice........

2009-11-23T22:37:00.002+08:00

For making Byron an interchangeable lenses camera, many modifications need to be done. Bellows as example, is a must. None of other 110B conversions replace bellows as I do, besides simplified the jobs, I think that they don't provide lens interchanging ability is another reason.

Front standard need to be drilled into 48mm in dia.

To maximize the size that lens could be directly mounted on the front standard, I need to re-design the bellows, and the front plate of bellows, for those modern lenses always are big-rear element in size, compares to those vintage lenses, whose rear are tiny. Original bellows front plate has a diameter 36mm hole, just the size for #0 shutter thread, that is fine for those lenses with tiny rear element, like Ysarex 4.7/127. But when a modern lens is mounted, their rear element are bigger than 36mm, you need to screw off the rear, mount the shutter with front element, then screw back the rear, I call this in-direct lens mount.

Original bellow front plate hole is 36mm in dia.

Well, if I am not picky, or trying to keep the conversion simple, I can leave the bellows as it is, so I don't have to replace the bellows, and certainly no need to re-design the bellows front plate.
But it will be a pain in the ass for my clients, if they try to use any modern lenses. Apo Symmar 5.6/150, as example, got a 46mm in diameter on rear element, so each time a Byron owner use it, he needs to in-direct mount it on. Screw off the rear, mount, screw back......Just think that scenario, especially on street, or in field!! That drives me nut!

new plate on top of the old one, 48mm vs. 36mm

48mm in diameter, this is the maximun size I can get from new design bellows and front plate, for a modern lens to directly mount on. only 12mm add, compare to it was, but at least some modern lenses can be directly mount on the front standard, and that is the limit I can push for Byron.

Apo Symmar 5.6/150 can directly mount by new plate.

I myself made bellows, so bellows won't be a problem, it is the bellows plate that bothers me! It is used to fix bellows front end to front standard.
A tiny steel plate, very thin, with some holes on it, that's it. But when I asked my mechanist to make some for me, they answered "NO"!
Why? it should be an easy and simple job, just cut into the plate and drill some holes, what's the big deal?
The big deal is, it is too thin for handmade, it can be made only by pressing machine, and pressing needs molds. All needs are three molds, not one.
And molds cost money.
If it is in economical scale, says we are going to produce 50,000 pieces, molds cost is nothing, easily share into each piece.
But what I need for this, 500 pieces the most, I doubt myself even if I can make 200 Byron in my whole life. So the cost for molds became expensive, and also to each plate.

To invest, or not to invest?

You know the answer, but you won't notice....it is just a tiny plate hide behind the front standard...

(24/11 Add...)

Then there are some particular screws, needed for Byron. Lens board needs two screws, the smaller one for fixing the lens, and the bigger one for locking the board, as you can see in the image below, the bigger one was later replaced by black ones outside the rim, considering the reflection of surface in bllows. They all are not industrial standard size, meaning? Special Order.

Not only lens board needs special screws, also does the sliding lock.

These screws are not hard to make, to the screw factory, actually they can make any screw just you draw it on the paper, the problem is the quantity.

Here are the conversations after I send the drawing to the factory, the salesman called me:
"Hi, I saw your drawing, would you tell me your company is?....."
"Well, I don't have a company, I just want to order some screws for my old camera."
"OK, no problem, how many screws do you want?"
"200."
"200 kilo gram?"
"No, 200 pieces"

click, the line is off.

Then I become smarter.
"Yes, I am in R&D department of my company, we need some screws for pilot run, you make 500 sample to me first!"
"We will made 500 pieces for you to test run, could you tell me the quantity for following order?"

click, I hung up the phone.

Factory told me, whenever they start the machine, at least 5000 screws made in first minute, so often they refer the quantity in weight, not pieces. Finally, I beg my friend who works in a famous computer company, as a mechanical engineer, use his connection to FORCE screw factory made these screw for me.

The cost? I'd rather not to think about it.

Byron is so accumulated by many un-noticeable improvements, bringing it into a 4x5 rangefolder of excellent, of my proud.

X'mas conversion is on the way

2009-11-18T16:43:00.000+08:00

Hope to finish these conversions and send them home by Christmas. The left one is a J-66, for myself, to convert it into a wide angle 4x5 snap shooter, for 47, 58,and 65mm lens.

Three Tripod Sockets

2009-11-16T10:26:00.002+08:00

In my own opinion, that a camera equipped with only one socket for tripod is a stupid idea for the purpose of mounting securely. One socket provides as a pivot for camera to rotate, only the friction that between the base and the quick release plate stops it from turning, so you have to screw it really really really tight, tight enough to leave scratches and scars on base, but still that doesn't guarantee camera from turning around, especially on heavier camera, like Linhof Technika IV I owned. I can't stop thinking why the designers in Linhof not awaring this problem, just one socket for this heavy brick?!! Do they field test the camera or not?

Maybe I am too picky, or think too much, but there are many quick release plates smartly designed with two supports, so camera will really securely sticked with the plate, there is no way you can rotate the camera, even if screwing not so tight.

This has to be accomplished by a matching camera base, with two sockets, one for screw, one for support. So I decide to make one more socket accompanied by the screw socket, that will bring us more secure support.

Remember to use the quick release plate with two supports!!

And then there is another similar situation, when you use a bracket or an accessory plate, one socket of such a long arm is not enough, one more socket for screw is necessary, so there I go, another 1/4 screw socket at side for it.

So Byron has three sockets on base, two as a pair, and another one for bracket.

I think those heavy cameras should all do the same design as well.

** There are enough new updates on Byron to release version 2 ""something you should know about Byron 4x5 rangefolder camera", but this time I would like to know who is interested in it, so please write to me for it, I will send it to you when released.

Locking Clip For Front Standard

2009-11-15T08:11:00.002+08:00

This is a design for a problem that other 110B conversion never touched, they don't provide lens interchangeable abilities.
110B front standard is designed for Ysarex 4.7/127mm lens only, it is tiny and lightweight, equipped with a powerful spring, it stands rigid when bellows pulled out for snaps, and fold flat while bellows pushed back and door closed.
I emphasize "rigid" because that depends, if the lens is a lightweight one, like Ysarex 4.7/127, Angulon 6.8/90, Symmar-S 5.6/100, Apo-Symmar 5.6/150, or Apo Ronar 9/150, weighted around 200g, that spring standard is "rigid".
But when 110B converted from a fixed lens into a lens interchangeable camera, it is possible for user to mount a much heavier lens on it, will the spring front standard hold it well?
This is the original front standard

With a lightweight lens like Symmar-S 5.6/100 (185g), standard support firmly keeps lens stand vertically, even we lean the standard forward, it bounce back right away.

But if we mount a Super Angulon 8/90 (363g), the spring is not able to keep standard vertical so firmly, if we lean the lens, the standard will not bounce back.

To solve this problem, months ago I tried to use two round plates as "Stop" to keep support from sliding, so standard wouldn't lean forward, it works, but awkward to operate, so it was abandoned.

Then I ask spring factory made locking clip for me, according to my design, there were several versions, finally I picked the one below in the image. Made in Dia. 2mm steel thread, very strong.

Locking clip set will hold the support extremely tight with the standard, keeps it at the vertical position without any movement. When you press the clip down, it "click" locks the support, you know it is locked.

This clip is for heavy weight lenses, you don't need to use it when the lens is tiny and lightweight, but I think always locking the support is a good habit, since it is so easy to operate, why not?
When you finished snaps, want to fold up the camera, pull the clip up, it will hide under the shutter nicely, wouldn't bother any operation and storage.

Detachable Eyecup

2009-11-13T10:05:00.002+08:00

For fun again!

A detachable eyecup, made in rubber, improve viewing contrast, the cup can be folded when not in use, or detached. And the cup can be rotated for right/left eye.
I mount a roll film back, the thickest one I have, eyecup perfectly help me to block out light noise around, more clear and contrast viewing!

Ground Glass Panel

2009-11-12T14:55:00.002+08:00

Just for fun, I decided to make a hood for my ground glass, but in my way.

I intended to make ground glass a separated part, since Byron is designed for snap shots, a ground glass is not a necessity, but occasionally when it is treated as a view camera, then you need a ground glass. Most of time I left it at home, when I knew today my Byron is a snappy, no chance for viewing.

It share the same size of a double sided dark slides, almost. Made in bakelite, following the ISO standard dimensions, equipped with Fresnel lens, this ground glass is bright in viewing.
It is for Graflok system, not only Byron, any view camera with Graflok system can install it, I put it on my Linhof Technika IV without any problem!

The hood, is in thin plastic sheet, matte black, I cut them as paper card, I used do package designs when in computer company, so to me it's like back to the old time.

When hood is folded up, it protects the surface of ground glass, also prevents dust or scratches of lens. Maybe I should make a sleeve for it?

I am glad that I was wrong!

2009-11-03T16:50:00.000+08:00

Today I received two parcels from Germany, a customer sent lenses for his Byron, one is a Rodenstock Grandagon-N 4.5/75mm in #0 shutter, I knew that Byron can handle 90mm lens quite safely, but never tried a 75, because I did not own one.
Discussed with my German pal and we decided to give it a go, why not? If Byron can not take it, just return it, we lose nothing!
But it did! Byron handles it quite well! by inspecting on ground glass I saw that image is just at the edge of the camera bed when focus to infinity.

YEAHHHHHHH!

I am glad to announce that I was wrong! Byron can handle the lenses in focal range from 75~150mm, not 90~150mm!!
Way to go!! Byron!
Will make field test in these days.
This is a good reason to update " Something you should know about Byron" into v2.0

(03/11 ADD)

Taking picture on roof top this morning, with 75mm lens and Fuji PA-45, to see if Byron can handle this lens perfectly or not.

Conclusion: not so.

Rodenstock Grandagon 4.5/75, PL lens, FP-100C 45 instant film, f11, 1/30sec
Image area in FP-110C 45 instant film is 117.5x88.5mm, slightly smaller than 120x90mm, but it shows about 6mm width on right side was influenced by camera bed, thus some dark area appeared, and PL lens emphasized the effect. By estimated, about 7mm of right side will be darken on double slide holder.
Well, not so perfect, but still can be used if you ignore that dark area......treat it as a 113x90mm opening...., think in positive way, it won't show up when in 3x4 instant film........, and in 6x12 roll film (56x112mm opening)

(08/11 Add)
This morning I asked my two kids as model, test for close focus, they brought the bread they made last night, and keep eating it while I focus.......

Rodenstock Grandagon 4.5/75, FP-100C 45 instant film, f16, 1/30sec, focus at about 6 feet (1.8m)

It shows no any darken area in close focusing.

Invisible Cable Release Holder

2009-10-29T10:30:00.002+08:00

You can not see my new design cable release holder, but it is right there!
I don't like to spoil the simple style and outlook of camera body, so what I design for a cable release holder, is an innovative way, way beyond I myself could imaging! I really am proud about it! simple but elegant!

It is for your left hand, for your index finger......

Will show you how it works later, I need to buy a little parts for it now.

(02/11/09 Add)

In fact it is a typical ergonomics study, in product design. We try to gain the best results in compromising between operation functions and outlooks of product, in a cost effective way.

Here shows three possibilities for holding the shutter while taking pictures.

1. Cable at the side of body, in front of the strap

2. Cable at the side of body, at back of the strap

3. Cable beneath the view window, by side of door lock

No matter which position we put cable, index finger is the only candidate for pressing release.

Now we found out that position 1 & 2 makes index finger raise high for release, we will feel tired if keep that way for long time, and thus weaken the stability for holding camera, it seems the third way is the best choice. We should install a cable release holder just beneath the view window, according to the conclusion of the ergo study.

But the question is how a holder should be, and at which position?

Well, as I mentioned before, I am trying to keep the outlook as simple and neat as possible, in the reason of aesthetics, as well as cost effectiveness.
Another consideration is the trap that product designers often step in without awareness. They tend to treat themselves as a standard human body measure, when they feel comfortable on prototype, they think the size is right to everyone, but that is not true, they are not qualified representing as average people. This is why Ergonomics exists. I decide the position for holder according to my palm size, what about the user with smaller/bigger palm size, will they be feeling comfortable?
So you know the paradox, it seems I never got a chance to install a cable release holder, to satisfy every user. That puzzled me for a while, I am in a dead alley.
Months later, I reviewed the purpose of this holder, must it be stayed in a fixed place? how about a holder with some flexibility for different palm size?
That broaden my thought and I know how to solve it!!
I found a tiny product, made in stainless steel and spring, it is a pen clip, for holding a pen in shirt pocket.

Let's use it as a cable release holder, looks like this:

Now this clip becomes a "cable release holder", but how to make this holder fixed on camera body, and fits everyone's palm size?

The answer: strong magnets

These magnets are very powerful when they attracted together, you have to use some force to separate them, I glue one in the clip with AB glue, and put another two inside the door lock.

So when you use cable release, put the holder near the door lock, two magnets will attract each other, your cable release stays on the door lock.

And since the holder is attracted by magnetic power, it is not dead-fixed on the door lock, means you can hold the release in any angle you like, according to your palm size.

Magnetic power makes holder stayed on camera body well, but keeps flexibility, and when you take off the cable, you take off the holder too, keeps camera outlook neat and simple. A tiny part of the camera, but took me two months to set.

Did I mention that a chamber is in the camera body for cable release/holder storage? No? well, it has.

Byron Camera Conversion Service is right at here!!....

2009-10-25T22:23:00.000+08:00

Basic conversion including:

you send one Polaroid 110B camera with 4.7/127mm lens, and with 2nd lens in #0 shutter (best Angulon 6.8/90mm), to me.
I will convert camera into Byron, and with 2 lenses with lens board, for interchange.
A ground glass panel with Fresnel attached, free with the conversion.

more detail information please visit:

Demo Videos on Youtube
Film holding back system
Lens interchangeable system
"Something you should know about Byron" A booklet in PDF format about Byron, enjoy reading!
Service detail

And then please contact me for your custom conversion detail, further discussion is a necessity for satisfactory services, especially for your own Byron.
Contact Me

xBay removed my Byron listing......

2009-10-25T12:26:00.000+08:00

I received a mail from xBay this morning notifying me the listing of Byron been removed, here is the reason they think inappropriate:

MC018 eBay Listing Removed: Miscategorization (337681104)

You recently listed the following listing:
200391846786 - Polaroid 110B 4x5 RangeFolder camera conversion
Unfortunately, we had to remove your listing because the following information violates our policy:
Listed in category: Cameras & Photo > Film Cameras > Large Format > 5x7 & Smaller

To avoid confusion, be sure to select a category that matches exactly what you're selling in your listing.......

Without any further suggestion, or any buffering, just remove my listing in a sudden! I have been listed this for about 45 days already, without any question, I got 30 watches and 4 sold already! What my buyers would think of this? They will suspect that I am cheating them, just disappear without a sign! But that is what xBay made!!
I do really want to know in such a 4x5 film camera, what category is the right one, besides "5x7 and smaller"?

Hey! I paid for the listing! do you hear me? xBay!!!

(25/10 add) I don't sell camera on xBay anymore, now I sell Byron lens board only!! Pay even less to the Bay!!

Polaroid 3x4 Backs

2009-10-17T15:36:00.000+08:00

I was wrong about Polaroid Backs.
Until days before, I thought that Byron can't take any Polaroid backs, for instant film, there is only Fuji PA-45 back that Byron can hold. But now I found that for 4x5 instant film, Polaroid 550 holder is exactly the same as Fuji PA-45, so I should add Polaroid 550 into the list. And for 3x4 instant film, that Fuji PA-145, Polaroid 405, Polaroid CB-103, CB-101, they need to be modified, if you want them on Byron.
This is Polaroid CB-101, all we need to do is to cut the extruding part for hook

And for Polaroid 103 back, similar modification

After lathed by my mechanist, now the back is feasible onto Byron

But some problems to take care of, first, the film back lock, second, dark slide can not be used, meaning you have to shoot all 10 films before changing other back.

"It seems 3x4 instant film is back on the menu, boys!"

--movie "Lord of the Rings- Two Towers"

Four Designs camera is not feasible for Byron conversion

2009-10-16T09:15:00.000+08:00

Reply to all who are interested in Byron camera, 110B that had been converted by Four Designs company, is not feasible for Byron conversion, since they all are body-cut, where the place for clamps on Byron.

I am sorry for that, but Byron conversion needs a complete 110B camera body.

Something you should know about Byron

2009-10-11T15:58:00.000+08:00

I made a booklet in PDF file, about Byron Camera, 2.8MB, if you are interested in this camera, please download it and enjoy reading.

This is version 01, I hope to add Q and A chapter later, but I need your help, Please send me your question, I will be happy to add it on coming version.

link to booklet PDF file

If you can not download it, email me, I send it to you.

salihonba@gmail.com

(10/12) I forgot to mention the cable release holder, it is on left side of camera body when holding, you can use it to limit vibration chances during shooting. This will add on next version.

Thank you for your support!

2009-09-29T18:09:00.000+08:00

Thank you guys, fund for ordering parts is reaching my need, and for the cameras you send to me, I can begin to convert on Oct, so we should manage to ship the converted camera back to you in Nov.

Thanks again! I won't let you down!

Daniel

Bring Byron to Tibet?

2009-09-27T06:18:00.000+08:00

I don't know how this camera handling the cold weather, but I am happy to know someone will travel with it there.
It brought me some thought in mind, how this camera be identified? Yes it is made for snap shooting, but since the format, you can't really treat it as a bigger M6 or Mamiya M7. I personally found it is a good start to bring big format back to people, to city, and to daily lives. There is one Technika IV lying in my cabinet, which I used it for landscapes and studio portraits, but never a chance to people on street, that initialed my Byron conversion project.
I think it is not quiet the same concept as Press camera, those pressmen used for news 60 years ago, they used strong flash, they cropped a lot, and their final print in low quality newspapers...., that's why I thought Byron is hard to be identified now.
But now it show some advantages, fitted for traveling, pack light, camera weighted below 1kg, and with 3 lens, managed within 2.2kg range, the one who will carry it to Tibet planning shoot some 4x5 and 6x12, I wish him all the best!

Video demo how to use the Byron film back system

2009-09-21T16:44:00.000+08:00

at seashore

2009-09-18T17:06:00.000+08:00

Byron+Schneider SA 8/90 + red filter+ Tri-X 4x5

new design for film back system

2009-09-15T11:19:00.002+08:00

Follow want Jack advised before, I change the blocking plate of double-sided holder from a pull-out-push-in into a simply rotating design.
When the plate is rotated to show up, the camera is ready for double-sided holder.

And when the plate is rotated to hide in the chamber, it is ready for bayonet style holder, like Fuji PA-45, Grafmatic or 120 film holders.

This way, the camera is need no any parts to be taken off or installed back while changing the film system, no springs, no screws, no gg plates...., just a rotating plate to make all things done! and you wouldn't lost any thing in field.

Agfa MultiContrast FB paper ISO and ZoneMaster meter calibration

2009-09-13T19:33:00.000+08:00

What I used to calibrate ZoneMaster enlarging exposure meter (made by RHdesigns UK), is different with the way written in ZoneMaster manual. Manual said you have to set the exposure compensation, which gained from test stripe, then find out the paper contrast range to set paper ISO.

Well to me these sounds complicated and troublesome, I always trying to solve the problem in one shot, so I did it, with help of Stouffer TP-41 4x5 step wedge(looks like they do not produce it anymore, but TP-31 is OK), and ZR9 Zone system chart, on Agfa FB paper.

First, I put TP-41 over the meter, with #5* wedge on top of the meter circle. under the enlarger, I measure it and get the reading, it is for mid-grey, so I press the darker button, to push the readout to darkest end of greyscale, it is for ZONE II. According to the readout, I made contact print for each grade, so I got 7 contacts, from #00, #0, #1...#5. for 8x10 paper, it only need two pages of paper to finish all the test.

I developed and processed the paper as usual, then inspected the print under the light. use RZ9 as reference, find out the best match grey scale as Zone II and Zone VIII as on RZ9.

Here is the data I got from prints.

Grade II~VIII Range ISO Offset

#00 #2~16 225 0 **

#0 #5~36 160 0

#1 #6~35 150 -1

#2 #4~29 130 +1

#3 #4~24 105 +1

#4 #4~22 95 +2

#5 #5~18 70 0

take #1 as example, the grey range from #6~#35, totally 30 steps in count, and each step represents Dlog0.05 on TP41, so it means grade #1 paper can handle 0.05x30=1.5 density range on negative, place it between Zone II and Zone VIII, we define it as ISO 150 for this grade.
And since we use step#5 as reference to make the meter, but now it moves to step#6 on contact print, so we need to make exposure compensation -1, to adjust the ZoneMaster meter.

* TP41 got 41 wedges and each one in 0.05 density increments, total 2.0 density range, fully cover the d.range a normal negative will have. using #5 instead of #1 as start point, for leaving spaces for calibration if needed.

** Due the long slope of the grade #00, it is tested by TP-21, which has a logD=3.0 density range. and used #3 as start point. each step on TP21 represent 0.15 density range.

Contact print with LCD monitor, a tailor made light source for film

2009-09-06T19:53:00.000+08:00

Just initial a thread in Large format photography site, about contact print
LCD monitor as VC light source for contact print
The biggest format film I made now is 4x5, not a good candidate for this, but who knows, maybe someday I will try 20x24.

What I am thinking of the contact process need a LCD monitor and a thin piece of semi-matt glass like ground glass.

you scan your developed film in very rough resolution, say 72ppi, just for viewing on monitor, then decide paper grade and pick correspondent RGB values, and make some dodge and burn and grade change in part area, all in soft paintbrush, now this is the light source specifically for this film, it can be saved as a data file.

Now is time for contact print, stack in order 1. monitor 2.light source data file open. 3 matt glass to diffuse pixel. 4.developed film. 5. Multigrade paper.

that's the idea.

complicated? yes for first time, but think of the large format contact print, I mean really big, a tailor made light source for it is worthy doing, especially for those difficult negatives.......

Yes my goal is to build a system that for large format film that do contact print as final output, no enlargement, like those huge size film 20x24. So I am looking a way that can do all the techs that on enlarger.

And not only it copy all the tricks you can have on enlarger, most important part is, it records and plays your tricks again, and again.....

For enlarger, you got light path as space for dodging and burning, you got VC light source to change grade, or area splitting prints......

So in traditional way, you utilize all these tools and tricks in darkroom, struggling to make a perfect print, finally it came out, fit your standard, and now you want to make a second print, you have to do those process again!

explore a way to make a perfect print is an creative challenge, but do the same thing again and again, is a hard labor work.

But if we use LCD monitor as a light panel, and through color control, area intensity control, we can do all enlarger does, all these can be precisely set in digit, and the greatest part is, these setting (color, intensity) can be saved as a file (through image software).

I treat this as a tailored light source specifically for this film.

For the first perfect contact print, you need to play all the tricks, just like on enlarge, struggling to make a satisfying print, but after that, to make a second, third, of even years later you want to make the same print again, just use that light source file, it saves those tedious job for you.

Now is a digital era, but we insist on analog output because it is not replaceable, at least at this time, but we can take the advantage of digital tech, to make the creation process easier and consistent. traceable and has a record to discuss later.

B & W snaps in Taipei

2009-09-04T15:39:00.000+08:00

Taipei MRT, Byron+Ysarex 127mm+ Tmax400 4x5 + Agfa MCC 111 FB 8x10

On bus, Taipei MRT, Byron+Ysarex 127mm+ Tmax400 4x5 + Agfa MCC 111 FB 8x10

statue of Dr. George Leslie Mackay, Byron+Symmar-S 100+ Tmax400 4x5 + Agfa MCC 111 FB 8x10